What is the city but the people? ~ William Shakespeare in Coriolanus
Saluting the spirit of the nation and feeling grateful for the life that my adopted home in @mydubai has gifted me with. Almost two decades of living here… a beautiful home, amazing friends, an exciting career, dreams and realizing dreams… it's all happened here. Happy long weekend folks! #nostalgicbliss
Here’s to a long weekend in the UAE.. marking Prophet Mohammed’s birthday (may peace be upon him), the Commemoration Day or Martyrs‘ Day and the upcoming 46th National Day. A flurry of shots like the above created for my Instastory – coffee pouring into the special cup, multiple latte art after, until I realised that my Iphone is glitching. Everytime I post, it’s posting from Big Z’s account – perhaps, an invisible nudge from the destiny to chuck social media and return to my blog. Anyway, a long leisurely weekend is always good to collate some thoughts – a bit of reflection on the the current phase of life in general. And that brings me to my life in the UAE… Dubai is where I have spent almost half of my lifetime (until now) and there are too many albums filled with memories – good and bad (as is life’s journey), and I am grateful for the life that my adopted home here has gifted me with. Having lived here for so long and writing a blog that features Dubai in a big way, I also get asked many Dubai-related questions all the time – quite often on other things as well apart from food. Let’s stick to the food related ones. Where do we take our visiting guests? Where do we eat with them? What to special souvenir can one buy buy? Which are my favourite restaurants here and the best place to dine in etc. But the oft requested one, specially after one hears that we lived here for almost two decades (yes, I had landed here around this time of the year way back in 1999) is this one… When you finally move out of Dubai… which restaurant would you like to visit for one last time for a farewell gig with family and friends? Any special dish and any special memory associated with the restaurant or the dish?
When you finally move out of Dubai… which restaurant would you like to visit for one last time for a farewell gig with family and friends?
Not that we have any such plans of moving out of Dubai anytime soon… unless of course, push comes to shove! As a family, we love entertaining at home and go to great lengths to create elaborate menus – traditional or otherwise, and we wouldn’t choose any restaurant over a home treat. However, if we had to choose a place outside of our home, there will have to be two gigs actually – one according to my liking and the other one for the Bearded Biker. Mine would be Arabian Tea House… not specifically for their food but for the many memories built over the years as we hung out with friends. The casual vibe, the canopies fluttering in the wind, the surrounding wind towers of the architecture that once embodied Dubai’s origin etc. And for the Bearded Biker, it would have to be the very popular Ravi Restaurant in Satwa. I asked the Z-Sisters too, they are probably too young to have any restaurant association. Beach, desert, MOE, friend Kirsten’s place… oh stop!
Arabian Tea House in Bastakiya
In my memory, Arabian Tea House will always remain Basta Cafe, the original name for this cafe restaurant. When we had arrived in Dubai in 1998 (landed I should say, not arrived – we are still trying to arrive in Dubai!), our first rented apartment was in Rolla Road. While the nearest supermarket Citimart took care of our new-to-Dubai desi binges (including Bengali fish and fierce mustard oil), our favourite joints would be the humble coffee shop inside Spinneys in the Golden Sands area or a walk into the art alleys of Bastakiya and take a breather in the Basta Café. It wasn’t as posh and popular in those days but was very quiet, quaint and pretty in its own way. A courtyard surrounded by plotted plants and white canopies shifting from the brunches of Neem trees looming in the background like observant guardians. The white wickers and the sitting arrangements under the shaded canopies, lanterns hanging from the sand coloured walls – they are evident even today. It’s a miracle that Basta Café has still retained its original earthy charm. There have been a few charming additions to the decor now and fortunately the menu has become more encompassing – more touristy, I would say. While previously, you could get only sandwiches, pastas or an occasional lunch grab, now you can actually have a pretty decent Arabic meal. My choice of this venue is not so much about the food, I would prefer Barjeel Guest House any day for the food. In wake of the city’s ever changing landscape, if there is one place that has seeped into my subconscious (much like my friend, colleague and soul sister Debbie, as she has shares later), is the Bastakiya area and the creekside (I’ve written a lot about this area in my Hidden Gems column – the Creekside Cafe, Barjeel Guest House, Coffee Museum, Calligraphy House and others). I can still feel the breeze in this area from different hours of the day – and seasons for that matter in my subconsciousness, the cool nudge during the early mornings, the gentle hot brush during the summers, the chilly nip during the winters… and finally the welcoming one after hours of exhausted walk, either with visitors or on my own. I remember putting my legs up on the charpoy and settling down for casual chats, shisha and some nibbling with friends from decades back – yes, that charpoy isn’t there anymore and an open kitchen has taken over that space now. What do I recommend you eat here? Start off with some regular French fries sprinkled in local Khaleeji spices, the Arabic mezze, dips and salads – Hummus with meat, Moutabbel, traditional Kibbeh with raw meat, grilled Halloumi, Fattoush and the Arabian Tea House Special Salad consisting of fresh Rocca and other leaves, sprinkled with pomegranate seeds, a sprinkle of Sumac and a dressing of olive oil and pomegranate molasse. For mains, I would order a Shrimp Biryani – fine grained rice cooked in Baharat spices, Chicken Machboos or a Saloona Chicken, Tandoori Araayes – Arabic bread filled with minced meat, the charcoaled grilled Lamb Mince Kabab and a Mutfi Fish – sliced King Fish cooked in a tomato gravy with potatoes and Arabic spices. Don’t miss the Leqaimats, the heavenly fried dough balls laden in saffron infused sugar syrup, the Date cake oozing out gooey date caramel and the camel milk ice-cream. Do sign off with a strong Arabic gahwa served with fresh dates, if you can take it!
By the way, you will be served Arabic coffee and Leqaimat on the house, should you choose to visit them today on the UAE National Day! website
Ravi Restaurant in Satwa
Some clichés have to be accepted as the eternal truth. For example, Ravi Restaurant. Now this is my Bearded Biker’s choice of gig – daily, mundane, celebratory or otherwise. I have asked him many times – what do you like about Ravi Restaurant – The food or the bill, the comfort of basic dining? “I just like it. I like the food – I like everything. I can’t give you so many reasons”. Translated, that means no material for my write up! If a sundowner in a deserted tropical island or raising a toast under a starlit sky in a desert – just the two of us – is my idea of romance (too clichéd? But no roses for me please, opt for lilies and bougainvillea instead and rambling rocks and pretty pebbles that can seduce me to destinations – think Dead Sea or the Mt Everest!), for the Bearded Biker it would have to be a road trip on his Harley, a few beer stops on the way and finally a meal at Ravi. This is exactly what he’s told me, and I’m not making this up at all – am not sure where I fit in romantically here – whether as a pillion or follow him in a car on his road trail! While he has been visiting Ravi’s for a long time now my first visit had been fairly recent – maybe three years back. Debbie and I accompanied a visiting Filipino blogger to this most coveted ‘Dubai heritage’. We ordered quite a lot of the signature dishes from the menu and it left us very unimpressed – the food lacked the punch, and I don’t mean that in terms of spiciness alone. There was no flavour and taste. When I asked the staff, he courteously replied that they had kept the flavours mild as there was gora madam amongst us (punch Debbie for me someone, will you!). Since my first visit that day and until now, I have visited Ravi many times, as the Bearded Biker introduced a different side of Ravi to me – and I absolutely love it. Ravi reflects the very essence of Dubai – everybody is welcome here irrespective of his/her nationality, status – financially or otherwise. Even if the restaurant is crowded, there is practically no wait time – an empty table will always magically appear from somewhere and make way for you. Once seated, chilled bottles of mineral water are plopped up on the table covered with a disposable semi-transparent plastic table cloth, almost immediately. The staff is attentive, courteous and tends to you all the time and if you have been a frequent visitor, there’s no need to even spell out your orders. Early lunch, lunch, dinner, extremely late dinner – service and food has always been consistent. And the best part is the bill – it’s shockingly low. Agreed, it’s not a fine dining setup and you are not exactly munching on gourmet fare, but still Ravi is a Dubai institution and has gained a cult status of its own. Much like Bu Q’tair, and the latter has hiked up its prices in the recent years! If Craig David and other A-listers can visit the humble Ravi and make it their style statement, so can we ordinary mortals! Coming back to the food, what do we order? The Daal Fry and Rogni (butter) Naan to start with, followed by Kebabs, Mutton Peshawari, Mutton Kadhai, Brain Fry (not so much for me) and occasionally the Brain Nihari and the Paya if it hasn’t still run out. Each episode here – starting from waiting for the table, ordering food, to making the payment (note, it’s only cash payment here) – takes about an hour at the most. This doesn’t include the prying time that I need every time I visit Ravi – I peep into the kitchen and ogle at the enormous home made dough kept for the breads and naans (look at the fluffy bread below and you will know why I do this) and the kabab corner on the other side of the alley, where one can stand for endless hours (provided you can survive the heat from the charcoals) and see how meticulously the marinated meat is put into their respective sheekh or skewers and laid on the grills (see the last picture below).
What do other Dubai food bloggers say?
Aneesha Rai, Om Nom Nirvana: It would probably start at Aroos Damascus for me. Whenever my family goes there, we order the same dishes – the arayes, tabouleh, moutabel, chicken shish kebab and the shawarma plates… it’s a childhood favourite. Then we would head to Feras for the kunafa. Another probale choice would be to go to the neighbourhood restaurant Golden Fork for fish curry and rice. I still can’t make out the origin of the taste, but it’s more like the Kerala style Fish Moilee with a Filipino spice twist! This would be followed by a drive for a Filli chai and then a ‘Shah Rukh’ from Al Mallah (one of the visually stunning fresh fruit juices that the local cafeterias are famous for) – all these remind me of our drives to Mamzar during the winters. And the last would be a horribly awesome ketchup (!) and cheese mini pizza from Caesars – for keepsake school memories. @omnomnirvana on Instagram
Debbie Rogers, Coffee Cakes and Running: Mine is not so much a restaurant, but more of an area. For example, Dubai creek. It’s one of the areas which really sums up ‘traditional’ Dubai for me and is one of my ‘happy places’. Some of my best times have been at various places on or around the creek. Be it the beautiful fine dining aboard Bateaux Dubai, perfect for dinner or afternoon tea, often with visitors in tow, or more casual stops at some of the arabic eateries on the creek. Many of my trips to the creek have been adhoc with no dining plans arranged and whilst walking along beside the creek, the aroma of grilled meats, shisha and cardamon spiced coffee have often lured me into many different places.
My favourite dishes would be a mezze of Arabic classics, silky hummus, fresh tabouleh, smoky moutabel, charcoal cooked meats, all stuffed into fluffy pillows of hot Arabic bread and served with a side of fresh chilled watermelon juice. I’d take dessert at the Arabian Tea House where I’ve spent many an afternoon entertaining guests or reading a book in the quiet courtyard, and would end my evening at the Coffee Museum for a final cup of aromatic arabic ghawa, a modern latte with specialty coffee and a few coffee gadgets to sneak into my suitcase! @coffeecakesandrunning on Instagram
Lavina Israni, Lavina Israni: I think rather than going out somewhere, I would perhaps organize a feast at home and get lots of mutton biryani from Pak Liyari, along with some Bihari Rolls from Kabab Rolls and a pitcher of delicious lassi from Al Afadhil in Karama. Best farewell party ever! @lavinaisranicom on Instagram
Minna Herranen, Naked Plate: My choice depends on where I am heading from Dubai. I definitely want to eat Egyptian food made by Egyptian chefs so I will go to Grand Abu Shakra in Naif Street in Baniyas. That was my first Egyptian restaurant I have eaten in Dubai over a decade ago. I’d order the Egyptian breakfast foul and falafel aka tameya and eggs with pasterma and real Egyptian baladi bread. After that I’d order mixed grill with extra load of lamb chops and all the possible salads, also mahshi or the stuffed vegetable and molokeya soup. I will sign it off with the kunafa or fatayer with cream and honey. I would also like to indulge in my favorite snacks at the Indian restaurants at Meena Bazaar – bhel puri and pani puri till I drop. Sahtain! @minnahe on Instagram
Sachi Kumar, Where Sachi: I would start my last gastronomic outing in Dubai from Sharjah, starting with Laffah’s signature shawarma. I would then come to Meena Bazaar, have a falafel sandwich from Persian Cafeteria, then a ‘disco sandwich’ from Doha Cafeteria and finally end up at Al Mallah for my dose of hummus and cheese garlic chilli manakeesh. @wheresachi on Instagram
Sadia Anwar, Nomsville: I would brave the heat and stand outside Rangoli in Meena Bazar as the guy at the chat counter sticks out pani puris, one at a time, adjusting the meetha pani (the sweet tamarind water) ratio every other puri (back when Rangoli restaurant had the window) and then finishing it all off with their fresh, sticky jalebis. I have so many memories of my shopping sprees with friends and cousins followed by a Rangoli refuel which was an absolute must. And once we would be done for the day, we would head over to Tasty Bite and order takeaways of their garlicky, pickle-heavy shawarmas on toasted saj. Well, this is making me emotional already! @nomsville on Instagram
Sally Prosser, My Custard Pie: As much as it sounds clichéd, it will have to Ravi’s! Why did I celebrate my 40th birthday at these metal tables on the pavement by a busy road at an unlicensed restaurant ? It wasn’t just about having a rather severe midlife crisis (over 10 years ago btw before you start wishing me happy returns!). A friend first took me to Ravi’s in 1994 and insisted on their aloo paratha and chicken tikka on the bone – which I still order now. Recently, we went with visitors, as we always do, to this taxi driver’s cafe in the heart of Satwa. We tore piping hot roti with our fingers, dipped spoons into fluffy rice and steaming bowls of deeply savoury comforting Pakistani food. The couple next to us on the table were making appreciative mmmms and aaaahs. This is no hidden gem, they were tourists who had found it on TripAdvisor. “We just had to come to Ravi’s”. It’s hard to say why this place has gained such a following when there are hundreds of restaurants serving similar excellent Punjabi food in a no-frills way in Dubai. But we return again and again for the Chicken Achar, the Chicken Ginger, the Channa Daal, Palak Aloo, Paneer Masala and yes, that Chicken Tika on the bone. Rose water scented rice pudding in plastic tubs sent us back off into the bustling streets with smiles of contentment. @mycustardpie on Instagram
Samantha Wood, Foodiva: I’ve lived in Dubai for 18 years and have eaten my way around this emirate endless times, so if I was leaving, the last thing I would want is to dine out. I would save the dining for new experiences in my new home. Instead, I would order in Rossovivo’s classic Neapolitan pizza (provided I wasn’t moving to Italy!) OR oysters/ prawns from Market & Platters (which has since closed and is due to open in a new location) or Lafayette Gourmet, and crack open some very nice champagne with close friends – or I would hire a chef to cook at home. @foodiva on Instagram
Sana Chikhalia, Sana on Food: I would like to indulge in some good Mandi from Bait Al Mandi. @sanaonfood on Instagram
Sarah Walton, The Hedonista: I love the vibe of the Anatolian restaurant Rüya, it’s regional cuisine and I’ve watched chef Colin Claque’s Dubai career for the duration of my Dubai tenure. (Chef Colin Clague has been at the helm of the best of Dubai’s fine dining spots like Zuma, and later the stunning Qbara). @thehedonista on Instagram
Sharon Divan, Pickle My Fancy: I will go back to Al Mallah in Satwa to have a shawarma and their chocolate milkshake, or Shish Tawook at Al Safadi in Sheikh Zayed Road. Now that I think more of it – the restaurants I would go back to are the discreet ones, – the ones you know of only if someone has told you about (or if they are no longer ‘hidden’ gems) or you chance upon. If there was a restaurant (not sure if you can call it that) I would go back to in a heartbeat would be Bu Q’tair but in its old avatar. We had heard about it, but in those days with no GPS (almost 14 years back), we never seemed to find it and once we did, there was no stopping us. Some of my fondest memories have been eating food out of the small cafeterias in Deira (my first neighbourhood when I moved to Dubai) – shawarma (surprisingly, each one manages to taste different) and so affordable at Dh 1 only, a chicken kadhai and roti which my husband used to bring home for dinner from a small Pakistani joint in Al Ras when we did not have a functioning kitchen in our first home. Over the years, I have also enjoyed the delicious yet simple food at Bhavna, specially when I missed my home cooked Gujarati food and at Al Ustad Special Kabab or popularly known as Special Ostadi Restaurant (both in the Meena Bazaar area). Or perhaps, before I leave Dubai, I will finally make it to Ravi Restaurant in Satwa (14 years and still have never eaten there) and learn what the hullabaloo is all about! @picklemyfancy on Instagram
Yi-Hwa B. Hanna, Into the Ether: Definitely Single Fin Cafe at Surf House Dubai – Surf and SUP School. I’d go early, then have their Dawn Patrol breakfast burger on a jet black bun (truffled scrambled organic eggs with manchego cheese and a side of crispy bacon – it’s simple, but so damn good), stay there talking to friends and listening to good music – maybe, have a singalong if someone has a guitar and the weather’s good outside. Then I would go out for a nice long paddle off at the Sunset Beach and stay out to watch the sunset from the water before coming back for a strong Americano and a frozen acai bowl made with their homemade granola. Yes, this would be an all-day affair! My choice of this place is not particularly because of the food, although I do love it – non fussy but honest, fairly priced and tasty food, but because of the memories and the vibe there. The place feels like a second home to me and the people there – from the staff to the community regulars – are like family. Also because of the proximity to one of my happiest places in this city – Vitamin Sea! I think anyone who knows me will agree that this is where I can be usually found as it encompasses a lot of what I’m about and assuming that they share the same values that I do, these are the places/people/things I’d absolute miss the most after leaving Dubai. @yihwahanna on Instagram
Shawarma pangs for those who have already left the UAE shores
Francine Spiering, Life in the Foodlane: I would repeat what we did when we left – a tour of Old Dubai with Frying Pan Adventures, so I didn’t have to choose which restaurant or cuisine. Another place would be the fine dining restaurant Pierchic, for it’s scenic location: Pierchic.
Mafaza Haleem, Explored By Mafaza: I would love to visit the places that I haven’t been to before rather than the places I’ve already been to. As someone who moved out of Dubai recently, I am missing all the good food that Dubai has to offer, specially the shawarma. Honestly, I’d love to visit #morisushi one last time because I love the sushi there. @exploredbymafaza on Instagram
Priyanka Bhattacharya Dutt, turaturi.com: I can tell you as someone who has already moved out and relocated to India. Had I known I would never taste good shawarma again, I would have made sure I ate a shawarma sandwich everyday before leaving!
Shiyam Nagarajan, foodnflavors.com: My last meal in UAE was in Bombay Udupi in Ajman. I love the idli and sambhar dipped in a fragrant puddle of sambhar and the palak dosa. The Dubai equivalent of the restaurant would be Venus. @foodnflavors on Instagram
Memories and moments are what people move cities with… while we started our Dubai journey in 1999, we shifted base to Frankfurt for two years in 2004. We had several farewell parties at friends’ places (everybody seemed happy to be seeing us off, even gifted us so many Dubai souvenirs – the sand art and the framed khanjars), visited all our favourite hangout spots (one favourite spot was the Coffee Beans and Tea Leaves opposite Jumeirah Beach Park – none of them exist now), even drove to the Nalukettu restaurant in Ajman to have our favourite crab curry by the beach! Was there any particular food or a restaurant that we missed and talk about while in Frankfurt? I don’t think so. There were always some associated memories that would haunt us. For example, my daily walks by the creekside throughout my first pregnancy which made that area so precious, the occasional drives to the Palm Strip Mall on the Jumeirah Road for the Häagen-Dazs strawberry cheesecakes (there weren’t so many malls around or so many franchises of popular brands in every locality – imagine six Starbucks in one block!), the late night chai encounters by the small cafeterias on the Jumeirah Road (admitting coyly that we ordered from inside ether car, but no honking promise!), and the hours and hours spent under the solitude and bliss of white canopies at my beloved Basta Café. Cities change just like us humans, but the emotions and the soul remain unchanged and that’s what we have realised in our so many years of Dubai living. The memories of celebrations are etched in the mind forever. And tastes and flavours add in brightening those different moments. That’s why I return to Scoop in Outram Ghat everytime I visit Kolkata – they serve the sundaes from my childhood! For all of you who have been reading this, what is the strongest food association of a city that you have? And if you have been living in Dubai for a long time – think camel years, which will be the restaurant where you will have a last gig in? With mindless giggles all along!
Unblogging it all… Ishita
Disclaimer: This isn’t a sponsored post, nor are there any affiliated links. The subject, story, opinions and views stated here are my own and my bills have been self paid. While you enjoy reading my posts with lot of visuals, please do not use any material from these posts. Do join me on my daily food and travel journey on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter and Pinterest.
Here are a few of my friends’ write ups that might be of interest if you plan to dine out in Dubai:
• Where to take visitors to eat in Dubai – on a budget by My Custard Pie
• FooDiva’s 30 favourite Dubai restaurants (2017)
• Why is Ravi’s butter chicken the best? by Esha Nag in Friday Magazine
For the wise man, every day is a festival ∼ Plutarch
Shubho Bijoya! The five-day long Durga Pujo (wiki at your service) evokes a sense of pride, love and communal solidarity among Bengalis, in whichever part of the world they have chosen to call their home. For me, Dubai has been my adopted home for the the last few years and we celebrate it in our own non-ritualistic way. In my childhood, Durga Pujo was all about the excitement of school holidays accompanied by new sets of clothes designated for each ‘bela’, so five days of pujo meant ten sets of new clothes – one for each bela… morning and evening. Much later it became my chance to officially roam around the city 24×7 with my squad, the Bearded Biker being one of the squad members. The essence of the goddess’s arrival on earth – her monumental fight against demons and putting the faith back into humanity – that good always necessarily triumphs over evil, lost its significance to our search for the best phuchkawala in town who would still be willing to serve us at an ungodly hour of 4am. This, in turn, would invariably lead to the eternal fight for supremacy between North Calcutta and South Calcutta (yes, before the city was rechristened as Kolkata) – the para/locality battle of global importance – as if the verdict on the phuchka and the double egg double chicken roll determined the fate of a para. What could have been my purpose of dressing up in those days (much before the matured feminist principles set in – dressing up for one’s own self)? To attract boys from my hood? from other hoods? show off the best curves? earn an ego flattering tag of being quite a chick… I simply can’t remember now. Today this would have probably tantamounted to garnering a couple of ‘likes’ on social media! But the fact remains – the five days of Pujo every year, are still one of the most amazing days of my life… closely followed by the remembrances of a chaotic Holi… and the long wait culminating in the surreal feeling of attending the midnight mass in St Paul’s Cathedral as we ushered in Christmas. An earlier writing of mine talks about my childhood in Kolkata, a city which raised us to celebrate all the festivities that every religion had to offer. A festival was for celebrating and immersing one’s self in its being… irrespective of the religion. I was born a Hindu, but never told to be one. I worshipped Hindu deities, but never asked not to worship anyone else. I have gone on a Ramadan food trail in Kolkata with the same veneration as I have gone pandal hopping during Durga Pujo. Today when we celebrate Durga Pujo at home, it’s hardly the rituals that I want to bring in perspective, specially for the Z-Sisters. It’s the emotions… emotions of being a Bengali, a Kolkatan and finally being in love with the kaleidoscopic life that only a city like Kolkata can bring.
And for a Bengali, that colour of love is quintessentially red and white.
Whether it is the nine yard draping of a traditional sari, the shakha-pala adorned by the married Bengali woman – the white bangles made from conch-shell and the red bangles made of red corals, or the smearing of the red sindoor/vermilion on the forehead, the vibrancy of the red and white combination that I have grown up watching, is quite addictive. You may want to try out new things, but come Bijoya Dashami… the duotone outdoes all the others in the colour wheel. This year too, we ushered in Bijoya with a small gathering at home, a day earlier on Nobomi to coincide with our weekend. The menu was traditional and consisted of fish fry and mochar chop for starters (I also intended to make some aam paana vodka shots, which I forgot!) followed by the mains – beguni, potol bhaja, luchi, aloor dom, iliish maach bhaja, bhoger khichuri (a bit different from the khichuri recipe I have on my blog), mangsho, tomato khejurer chutney. Desserts consisted of notun gurer payesh, malpoa and a rum cake (courtesy friends) and signing off with the signatory paan. The requests pouring in from friends were endless – if the menu had mansho, then there had to be luchi and the luchi had to be phulko or perfectly puffed up (and if you still don’t know my obsession with it, read my ode to phulko luchi), begunis had to be crispy and hot, preferably not pre-fried. The same went for iliish maach bhaaja. Calcutta Fast Food in Sharjah very kindly took up my delicate proposal of ‘part-catering’, if there can be a word like that. A small live cooking section was arranged outdoors in the garden for frying the fish, mochar chop, beguni, luchi, ilissh maach. The sequence in which these needed to be fried also required some serious attention (and strategy) – the first two in the above list were to be served as starters, and the rest had to be doled out almost simultaneously during the main dinner. Not to forget the delicate balance of not frying too much too early on, or take the cue that the oil in which the iliish maach was fried wasn’t the same for frying the luchi!
♥ ♥ ♥ Lil Z created a cute hand written menu (left) which, I forgot to place along with the food. She is still upset with me and nothing can compensate this, not even posting it on my blog now because the moment is gone – it is a three-fold card with intricate design of a hand holding the card and the fingers wearing glittery rings. That brings me back to an issue that I seriously suffer from – always forgetting to serve something that has been created specially for the guests, for example, the chutney which is always left waiting in the fridge!
The Bearded Biker leaves no stone unturned for me to materialise a menu. So a few days earlier, after office, we dashed off to the Backet Supermarket in Rolla in Sharjah, the Bangladeshi wholesaler for Bengali fish and foodstuff. If it had to be iliish, it had to be from the Backet, he said. We decided that we would provide the iliish maach and the mustard oil for frying them, for our part-catering. A 12kgs Katla fish was dangling in our way and was way too tempting but we stuck to our list – for once! The special rice used for making bhoger khichuri and the payesh – the chinigura, which is a good substitute for Gobindobhog and the potol also came along with us from Backet. So did the special gondhoraj lebu, the Bengal lime which has a similar aroma to Thai kaffir limes. Salimbhai (below), helped me to choose the perfectly rounded aloo for my aloor dom and the barrel shaped perfect potols. He also promised that the iliish would taste heavenly and it indeed did so. Although, our need for Bengali fish is adequately met at Mefroze in Karama or from a Bangladeshi shop in Bur Dubai most of the times, this dinner needed to be special. After all, the preparation for a special celebration and it’s anticipation is in a way, a subtle infusion of love and warmth into the moments we create for keepsake memories.
The only time when fashion has to complement food in my blog, is during Pujo. As more and more metropolitan cities in India (and all over the world) are moving towards homogenisation, people are opting out of traditional wear in their daily lives and choosing to wear clothings that are convenient, practical and fuss free. And rightfully so. Festivals and special celebrations are becoming once-in a while special occasions that deserve special adornments. I am hoping that these pictures from my personal album reflect the richness of Bengali culture, despite being diluted in our adaptation at foreign shores. My brother also shared a picture of my Ma and Baba dressed up for Bijoya Sammelani (below) and this was my social media newbie Baba’s first pujo update on Facebook wishing everyone! I also dug into my archives for a picture of my mum-in-law during pujo… she hasn’t yet learnt to take a pujo selfie this year, hence no real evidence of her participation in the pujo. Big Z was a year old in the picture, taken at Iron Side Road in Kolkata, the residential complex where we lived for many years after we shifted from the Magistrate’s House. The stark redness of the sindoor, the crispness of the new saris, the beats of the dhol/ drums from the pandals, the early morning chanting of the priests, and the endless wait for the narkel narus/coconut truffles after the pushpanjali was over – I can feel everything vividly in my senses even today… wherever in the world I am. My brother has been updating live (on social media, of course) from the different pandals that he’s been visiting. I am sharing one of the theme pujos that caught my fancy (do check out his instagram handles @streetbizz and @inbitsnpieces capturing the eclectic world of street vendors and their pursuits). He writes: ‘Modern man’s self obsession with mobiles, is reflected in the theme of this North Kolkata Pujo capturing the attention of the selfie crazy instagram & snapchat generation’. I am sharing a gallery of his beautiful images. And while we are still on the subject, my friend Meher’s write up in Gulf News… ‘Tame that shrew called social media‘, makes for an interesting read.
As I sign off, wishing you all a life filled with happiness, prosperity and peace, my thoughts are with all those people affected by the incidents in Las Vegas today … or Barcelona a few days ago… or the quakes in Mexico… or the stampede at Elphinstone Road Station … or… or… the list is endless. How can we pledge for more tolerance? How can we nurture a non-judgemental society that is more compassionate, kind and respectful than it’s previous generation – and that cares for every fellow human being, irrespective of his/her religion, sexuality, ideology and geographical origin? And I beg you not to ask the nittygritties of my religion (a few challenging remarks have started pouring in recently). For I know nothing. I don’t have a particular religion. All I know is that I have embraced many things from many religion and many philosophies that have resonated with me… I chant Buddhist mantra and seek solace in praying the rosary, soak in the muezzin’s call for prayers and shut my eyes in veneration as I offer flowers to the deities in temples. And I derive the same sense of worshipping when I cook for my family and friends… and try to bring a few hearts together to sew a few good memories!
Unblogging it all… Ishita
Pssst: I have been shortlisted in the Top 10 list in the BBC GoodFood Awards ME 2017 under the ‘Food Influencer’ category. Do cast your votes for me to win!
Image credit: My friends – Bireswar, Soumitro, Nilanjana, Sumana; my brother Aveek and myself
Disclaimer: This isn’t a sponsored post, nor are there any affiliated links. The subject, story, opinions and views stated here are my own. While you enjoy reading my posts with lot of visuals, please do not use any material from these posts. Do join me on my daily food and travel journey on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter and Pinterest.
Good food is very often, even most often, simple food. ~ Anthony Bourdain
I believe that the heroes of each para or locality in Kolkata are… the phuchkawalas, jhalmuriwalas ~ the saviours of the city’s delicious street food culture. Just like Dilipda in Vivekananada Park, whose phuchkas have marked almost my every adolescent escapade, be it a breakup or a disastrous school report. Hail, rain or storm, you can find these unsung heroes everyday at their designated places feeding hundreds of dissatisfied street food addicts. Dissatisfied, because you will never find a satisfied customer when gorging on street food. There is always a feeling of something missing – either the salt or some spice, or the tanginess in the tamarind chutney or the crispiness of the phuchkas. And this eternal dissatisfaction leads to regular visits to one’s favourite roadside food stall. There is also this eternal trying to get hold of the ‘secret formula’ that goes into the customised ‘bite’ dictated by an individual’s taste buds. While I like to believe that the secret of not falling sick when you eat on the streets is to ‘believe’ that there’s nothing wrong with the food, there’s a bit more of logistics that one needs to adhere to – avoiding old dips and chutneys or making sure that the water used is safe. Also, sticking to popular places or those which are crowded makes sense, where the food turn around is prompt. Last year around this time, I had the honour of presenting Kolkata’s street food to Benjamin Zand for the BBC Travel Show (the link above opens up to the Kolkata episode). August in Kolkata is dedicated to the rain gods and is definitely not the best time to showcase dips and chutneys, specially from roadside food stalls and that too to westerners. However, fate had other things in store for me. Keith Wallace, director with the BBC Travel Show shared his brief with me… “we’ve had loads of suggestions for the street food in Decker’s/Dacre’s Lane, and we’re looking for someone who can tell us what all the food are, but also give us tips on food safety/hygiene, as I guess many westerners would be anxious about trying street good in India. It would be great to allay fears AND show off the street food”. And I did the honours!
Benjamin ‘Ben’ Zand is a British-Iranian journalist and filmmaker for The BBC Travel Show
Keith Wallace, Director BBC Travel Show
I was initially asked to wear a sari which I felt would be a bit too much considering that we were going to showcase street food. I did however resort to a kurta embroidered in traditional kantha-stitch, just to keep the Kolkata and the Bengal story going.
To be honest, Dacres Lane wasn’t my first choice for showcasing Kolkata’s street food considering it now faced a bit of dilapidation, although one can’t deny the fact that this stretch was still a heritage in the city’s street food landscape – a decaying heritage much like the city’s personal story. The show was based on social media suggestions and Dacres Lane outweighed all the other options. On the destined day, the rain gods thankfully didn’t play foul and we managed to taste all the signature dishes in the legendary Chittobabur Dokan. This entire lane off Esplanade is still strewn with restaurants and food stalls dating back to more than five decades with Chittobabur Dokan holding centre stage. We had their signature fish roll, ghugni, chicken stew with toasted pauruti and also the monsoon special khichuri combo. The latter priced at a mere Rs 25/plate and comprising with a runny khichuri, beguni, a cabbage torkari, papad, chutney and payesh is testimony to the fact that the Bengali sentiments for khichuri is more than just a tummy satisfying meal. It is commendable that all these sentiments were being upheld in the Khichuri served here, even though it had a humble pricing. Chittobabur Dokan is an eating hole in the office district and still boasts of a few regular diners who have been visiting the place for the last 40 years! Ditch the air-conditioned seating in Suruchee, a modern day expansion of the original food stall further down and opt for the outdoor benches in front of the original one instead. You may have to balance your lunch on the steel tray, but do concentrate on the simple flavours of the food. The stew screams comfort and deliciousness. The light gravy may look bland, but it’s strong in flavours, specially the piece of papaya and carrot that comes in a plate with the generous piece of chicken or the mutton. It’s humble and comforting and even the not-s0-overcooked-but-just-rightly-done papaya explains why regulars have been flocking here during the lunchtime for decades. This is as good as a tiffin brought in from home. Coming back to the legendary fish rolls – once you bite through the bread crumbs and a subtle layer of kashundi, the fish filling breaks easily into flakes, as is desired from a fresh catch of bhetki (and not its substitute basa). Ignoring an occasional car hooting through the narrow lane through the crowd or the rain water held by the tented ceiling above (in case it rains) may be difficult for some, but these things find their own steam and balance in cities like Kolkata!
Fish roll and pauruti toast in the legendary Chittobabur Dokan in Dacres Lane
Chicken stew and pauruti toast in the legendary Chittobabur Dokan in Dacres Lane
The special monsoon combo – khichuri lunch at Chittobabur Dokan in Dacres Lane
Chai-making in Chittobabur Dokan is a constant storytelling. More than 400 cups of chai are made in a day and once washed, each cup and saucer goes under boiling water.
The famous lassi at Sharma’s in Dacres Lane (just beside Chittobabur Dokan)
The Recce… a day earlier
When I am in Kolkata, I am spoilt rotten by my dear friend Milon who makes sure that all my desires on my Kolkata food bucket list are ticked off. Be it the Icecream Sodas, one of my childhood favourites that used to be available at different clubs in Kolkata and manufactured by Bijoli Grill and now almost extinct (he gets me cartons of bottles straight from the Cotton’s factory) to Mitra Cafe’s fish fry, his contribution to my food story writing is immense. Coming from a bonedi family in North Kolkata, he’s got his pulses in the city’s food scene like no other friend of mine. Whether it is to suggest the fusion Bengali restaurant Bohemian or bringing signature items from popular centenarian restaurants over to his place for dinner so that I don’t have to run across the different restaurants, Milon is on real adrenaline when it comes to food. On my recce to Dacres Lane before the actual shoot, he even lent me his father who has been diligently having his lunch in Dacres Lane for the last few decades. Although a real foodie, my friend refused to join us in our lunch explorations lunch in these roadside food stalls (his aristocratic demeanour prevents him from doing so, I think). Meshomoshai very generously guided us through his favourites from this place sharing his few decades long stories. Although there are many new restaurants which have mushroomed along this stretch, his loyalty over Chittobabu’s Dokan hasn’t swerved a bit. His favourite from the menu is the Diamond Fish Cutlet, which required pre-ordering – and for which we will have to revisit Dacres Lane again.
The nephew of the legendary Chittobabu. He runs the business now and is pretty adept at handling media and camera.
Sumitava Saha aka Neil, our nephew and photographer assistant (left) and Mesho (middle)
Meshomoshai having his regular lunch of chicken stew and pauruti
Do watch the full episode to see Benjamin in my city wresting in a traditional aakhra, visit the kaleidoscopic Kolutola bazaar, play football on the streets in a North Kolkata ‘para’ and more. Milon, Sumitava thanks for helping me with the recce (Milon, for lending your gracious dad for our lunch exploration), Amit and Rupanjali for sharing some amazing clicks; and finally Keith and Benjamin for embracing my city!
Unblogging it all… Ishita
The fully loaded groupfie with Keith Wallace and Benjamin Zand of BBC Travel Show team and Amit Dhar and Rupanjali Chatterjee who had been the most helpful fixers for our Kolkata story
Pssst: I have been shortlisted for the BBC GoodFood Awards ME 2017 under the ‘Food Influencer’ category. Do cast your votes for me!
Disclaimer: This isn’t a sponsored post, nor are there any affiliated links. The subject, story, opinions and views stated here are my own. While you enjoy reading my posts with lot of visuals, please do not use any material from these posts. Do join me on my daily food and travel journey on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter and Pinterest.
Read my friends’ write ups on Dacres Lane:
- Yummraj ~ Chittobabur Dokan
- Pikturenama ~ Dacres Lane Kolkata – memories of 2 years
I don’t like looking back. I’m always constantly looking forward. I’m not the one to sort of sit and cry over spilt milk. I’m too busy looking for the next cow. ∼ Gordon Ramsay
Hello – Happy New Year to all of you! I had the pleasure of meeting Gordon Ramsay in October last year and found the above quote of his very compelling, specially for the state of mind I am always in. I am telling myself to absolve the essence of the quote into each and every cell that I have in my body. Otherwise, I will be doling out explanations that I think I owe to my readers and and myself… how could I write more than 30,000 words across 60 articles in 2016, but not a single word for my blog? Or why could I post more than 530 posts on my Instagram (@ishitaunblogged) but not a single image in this blog! I travelled to 4 different countries, eaten in more than 30 new restaurants, interviewed more than 20 chefs – a few with the Michelin fame, encountered several delicious moments – all of which deserve a space here. It’s not that I haven’t had the time – writing is all that I have done in the last year. Didn’t a single word or an image make the cut for my blog? I have lost count of how many did actually – all because I have been FREAKING OVERTHINKING! The only thing that I have realised is that the blog is the life line for my all my creative juices and it has to continue, no matter what. It started off being such a fun space depicting my Dubai life, my Bong heritage and my travels elsewhere. What happened? Dear Ishita… be Gordon Ramsay, and look for the next cow – or fish if that pleases your Bong soul! Debbie, my blogger friend (aka Coffee Cakes & Running) and editor at FoodeMag (the food & travel emagazine that I had cofounded and now edit, an oft repeated info in case any of you are joining me in my blog space for the first time), left me with the ultimatum – “Press The Freaking Publish Button before this midnight.” I promised her I will. “So what are you going to write about?” she asked. I answered: “A Freaking Fish Biryani!”
Sniffing into fresh herbs and greens and brightly coloured fruits, I plopped up random stuff in the grocery this weekend. I danced in excitement when I saw a promising loot on the iced shelves of the fish section. I cooked up a few recipes in my head – all in flat thirty seconds of crossing the grocery aisles. The way I tugged at Big Z’s sleeves, it seemed like I was at a fancy grocery for the first time. Well, the first time after many weeks for sure, for the #BeardedBiker (that’s S formerly, but now transformed into this new hashtag permanently, much to my dislike) has taken away the grocery chore from me. Two reasons – One, I was proving to be more expensive and two, there was more wastage. The Z-Sisters of course had a way of manipulating me into buying stuff that we either didn’t need or were so much in excess of our needs that they regularly overshot their expiry dates and had to be thrown. “Please Mummy, please please please, can you buy some….?” Lady M too would tell me to add things randomly at the last minute, or minutes after the bill had been paid. “I forgot to write down…” These things don’t work with the Bearded Biker. No more apparent wastage. The part about my conscientious wife’s dented ego – well, I forgot about it soon as it worked to my advantage – no more last minute tweaks in the grocery list for flavoured gummies – and visibly cheaper grocery bills, fuller tummies, ampler time and more energy for my fingers to type!
Meditation… Freaking Meditation anyone?
Everywhere I have been reading about the power of Meditation. The more I read, the more frustrated and irritated I become as I stumble on my path to traditional Meditation. That’s where friends come in – they twist and tell you things that’s convenient for you! According to my friend and wellness practitioner Tanuka (aka Soulight Tanuka on Facebook), Meditation is doing any activity which doesn’t make you think of anything. Cooking for me is then, Meditation, otherwise my mind is full of nonstop chatter! Result of my meditation on last Saturday was this ~ FREAKING ~ Fish Biryani. Although the Bengali soul longed for Hilsa and all I could remember was the taste of the Hilsas from my last Kolkata visit, I have to admit that these King Fish steaks did a remarkable con job. Just because it was still the weekend and just because the Bearded Biker was back home after bashing the dunes in GN Fun Drive and just because he had put in a request for a King Fish Biryani many moons back – it had to be this fish Biryani on the menu. A Fish Biryani request coming from a Biryani loving Bong came as a bit of a surprise, because since time immemorial, a Biryani for a thoroughbred Bengali, had always meant an Awadhi Biryani (here’s a recipe of it from my blog)!
Freaking Fish Biryani
2 cups Basmati rice
5 steaks of King Fish
1/2 tsp coriander powder
4 green cardamoms
2 half-inch long cinnamon sticks
3 bay leaves
1/2 tsp turmeric powder
1/2 tsp Kashmiri chilli powder
2 tsp garam masala (the Bengali blend – a mixture of an equal proportion of powdered cardamom, cinnamon, cloves and bay leaf)
2 tsp fresh garlic paste
1 tsp fresh ginger paste
1 cup low-fat yoghurt
2 tbsp of ghee*
1/2 cup white oil
3 onions, thinly sliced
1 chilli, chopped finely if you want it spicy
1/2 cup chopped fresh coriander leaves (optional – for garnishing)
salt to taste
- Soak the rice in water for some time and drain out. Spread the rice grains thin over folded newspaper and let them dry.
- Mix coriander powder, turmeric powder, Kashmiri chilli powder, salt, ginger and garlic paste in yoghurt and marinate the fish steaks in the paste for thirty minutes. Heat oil in a flat pan and fry the fish steaks on both sides until the fish is almost cooked. Pour the remaining of the marinade and let it cook for a while.
- Heat oil in a flat pan and fry the onions until they become translucent. Set aside.
- Heat ghee in a deep, flat bottomed pan. Throw in the bay leaves, cardamoms, cinnamon sticks. Stir in the rice for a while. Add 4 cups of water (exactly double the amount of rice) and salt as per taste and cover with a lid. When the water starts to boil, cook in the lowest seam. Once the rice is cooked al dente, place the fried fish steaks on the surface along with the cooked marinade. Spread the fried onion. Splatter some ghee around the pan and put the lid back. Switch off the cooker by 5 minutes and remove from fire and let the Fish Biryani cook in its own seam.
- Garnish with chopped coriander and serve it FREAKING hot with a chilled Raita!
*The ghee that most Bengalis prefer to use is a bit strong in flavour and has an acquired taste (and preferably a brand called Jharna Ghee). It isn’t available here even in most Bangladeshi shops and hence travel back in our suitcases from Kolkata! You may also use any other brands of ghee or butter. Just so that there isn’t any more added confusion or disruption in your gastronomical thoughts, this tried and tested recipe doesn’t really belong traditionally to any region and has been developed in our kitchen – with great success!
At 6:45pm on Saturday, I got a sms from the Bearded Biker that there’s been a 600 Dhs RTA fine… a second one of a similar value within the first half of January in this new year… in the same Oudh Metha road. I couldn’t figure out WHY THE FREAKING HECK? I could have bought myself a new geeky gadget for myself with that money – any that can detect these radars and caution me beforehand? I also missed out the opportunity of a weekend afternoon siesta that the Fish Biryani lunch so deserved as an immediate follow-up. All this because of the ridiculous amount of time spent in MOE to collect my annual acquisition – a new pair of geeky glasses from my regular opticians. This also brought me to the realisation that the amount of money spent on my glasses ever since my childhood, just to make my thick glasses somewhat decently thin (I know similar fate awaits me in other aspects of life too), would probably have bought me a fairly oversized diamond ring, in which case bigger sizes wouldn’t matter. The mushiest and the most touching moment amidst all these unfair interludes of life ? Big Z declaring that she will forego all ECAs in school this term and her thirteenth birthday too that’s due in May end (not very soon but fairly soon, according to her and for which she has been counting days from the very next day after she turned twelve – bless her), in order to compensate the unexpected expenditure arisen from my fines. Her kindness melted my heart and while I have put her offer on hold now for a more pressing emergency in the future, I am seeking the next best and the most economic intervention possible – let my Bearded Biker do the weekly groceries. In the meanwhile, I am concentrating more on the menu to cook something delicious daily – it was a smoking hot Seabass stuffed with Green Peas, Coriander & Garlic Garnishing that I cooked the very next day. But first things first, without much OVERTHINKING (which I am capable of, in various intensities) and with less than two hours to go for the Cinderella hour, I have to press the FREAKING Publish Button and I hope that you try out my FREAKING Fish Biryani – it’s fairly FREAKING easy!
Unblogging it all… Ishita
PS: Looking back if I must (although Gordon wouldn’t approve of it), but looking down I mustn’t! It was only last week that I had an unique dining experience with Dinner in the Sky.
Only FOOD can lure me up there – 50m above sea level, harnessed up in a seat and hanging from a crane!
Good Morning ~ wishing you all a lovely day! #Repost @foodemagdxb with @repostapp ・・・ Experience an unique dining concept @dinnerintheskyuae where a group of 22 diners are lifted 50m in the air amidst breathtaking views. Editor @ishitaunblogged had a preview and quips in "Only FOOD can lure me up there – 50m above sea level, harnessed up in a seat and hanging from a crane!" Dining options include breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner and bookings are open for the public from tomorrow. Prices start from AED 499/person. #dinnerintheskyuae
Disclaimer: I had a media invite for Dinner in the Sky. The subject, story, opinions and views stated here are my own and are independent and this isn’t a sponsored post. While you enjoy reading my posts with lot of visuals, please do not use any material from these posts. Do join me on my daily food and travel journey on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter.
“We live in a wonderful world that is full of beauty, charm and adventure. There is no end to the adventures we can have if only we seek them with our eyes open.” – Jawaharlal Nehru
Travel Green if you want to keep on traveling.
I am not an environment expert. This is my green quest (or should I say green surfing over the internet?) to learn about Responsible Travelling. The objective is to learn green travel tips and ideas that are easy to apply and share with you and also gift them to the Z-Sisters so that they may continue travelling and exploring the world we live in. For what I read and understand, with the overload of information that I have right now is that, we are living in a very environmentally fragile space and we need to be aware of our surrounding environmental issues, the harmful effects of human activity on the biophysical environment. This post has links to sites that provide easy tips and suggestions to holidaymakers like me – who have good intentions but don’t know where to start or how to start. Read on for more ideas on accommodation, food and travel for a guilt-free Green holiday.
Talking about ourselves, our family has been an ‘easy environmentalist’ – conscientious but not very conscious, hence this quest. We have tried to travel green as much as is practical, booking ourselves into hotels and resorts who follow the green policy. I believe that an Eco-Resort is available for everyone, for all budgets. But not always everywhere. We are proud that the list of the eco resorts that we’ve have had a chance to visit so far, is gradually increasing – but these have been a bit on the high end kinds. There is a sense of satisfaction in knowing that a part of the money that we spent on our holiday, will most probably find itself re-generating something meaningful and empowering someone, somewhere on this planet, not just pay wages to people employed in the travel industry.
There has never been such an urgency as it is now to Travel Green. Counting carbon footprints (what is carbon footprint?) as well as currency notes while on vacation and thinking of alternative green ways (please don’t demand fresh Cheese air-freighted from France, when you are in a remote place in Mongolia!) while traveling is the only way to make sure that we can still go on vacations when we turn grandparents and our children turn parents. What would you do when holidaying options on earth cease? You could still book tickets on the Virgin Galactic to travel to the moon. The potential cost of such a holiday would be only $100 million – the cost of a single ticket to the moon. Of course, with a refundable deposit of $200K! [Virgin Galactic flight to the moon]
There is only one checklist for Green Travel – Is your environment being cared for?
It can’t be that difficult. We care for our children. We care for our homes. As humans, we have experience in care-giving. Surely, we can care for the environment too. All it takes is to believe that we can care or if push comes to thrust – we have to care, there is no other option. And you can travel green with kids. They have no idea about the colour of your travel!
Myths that block our minds about Green travel:
– It’s not comfortable and cannot be luxurious
– It’s more expensive
– It’s not child-friendly
– It’s only for those who are into adventure sports and nature lovers
– There is no urban type of a holiday destination – it must be in the tropical jungles or the forests or some wildlife sanctuary
– It requires extensive planning
– It’s meant for backpackers only
– It’s meant for environmentalist and not geared towards common layman like you and me
Remember – it’s only about making certain choices – choosing the right hotels, the right travel operators, making some background studying on the travel packages, choosing the right food (you can sacrifice the food that you are used to and opt for local variants or products of the country you are traveling for a few days). Choose the right travel options – and look out for Green destinations and Green accommodations.
Note: GREEN tour packages exist on every continent for all age, interest and family composition!
Following are some easy and simple green links so that your Green Quest doesn’t become an ordeal. From different destinations, to different holiday types to various type of accommodation you will find them all.
Interesting sites/blogs on Green Travel:
Greenty; Greenty’s Blog – Gives you wonderful options of Eco Resorts and Eco Hotels in Asia, Africa, Europe, Caribbean, Latin America and North America.
Your Travel Choice – Eco-destinations, responsible travel tips, climate change and tourism and more.
Responsible Travel – From Adventure holidays, Beach Holidays, Family Holidays, Wild-life Holidays, Walking Holidays and more from various destinations in Asia, Australia & Oceania, Africa, Europe, South America; Luxury hotels to Unusual accommodation – you will get everything and anything of your choice here. They promise to provide ‘the world’s best responsible and ecotourism holidays.
Eco India; Eco-India’s Blog – Eco-Parks, Eco-Tours, Eco-Resorts/Lodge, Eco-Activities, Eco-Places in natural reserves in India that preserve the environment and conserve endangered species.
Eco Luxury Retreats of the World – A collaboration of the best luxurious retreats in the world ‘that are ecologically and socially responsible with all what represents excellence in hospitality services and authentic experience, demonstrating that the two can go hand in hand.’ Did you think that Eco Resorts cannot be expensive? You may want to check in into one of the retreats enlisted here.
Readings that might make you believe in Green Travel:
What is Responsible Tourism?
Green Travel Tips – How to leave nothing but a footprint in your travels
Principles of Ecotourism
Sensible Travel Can Save The Environment
10 Myths of Responsible Traveling
Do share your thoughts on eco-travel and travelling green, specially if you have been living in this over pampered, over-indulgent sand pit! Or have you already been taking small measures that can add up to be a bundle of green travel ideas – practical and sustainable in the the long-term?
Unblogging it all,
Disclaimer: All illustrations have been developed by myself. The subject, story, opinions and views stated here are my own and are independent, excepting the resources that I have used. This is not a sponsored post and while you enjoy reading the posts with visuals, please do not use any material from these posts. And do join me on my daily food and travel journey on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter and Pinterest.
Things do not change; we change. ∼ Henry David Thoreau
Bu Qtair, the Dubai institution, has a new location now. A shift of 100 meters from one side of the road to the other – an upgraded location – a sea view along the fishing harbour. There are no more plastic chairs around and you are seated in posher-than-plastic cane chairs by the sea. Although the old charm of porta cabin is gone, a few things haven’t changed – the dining experience in terms of the charmingly harrowing long waits, the overdone crispy fried fish (my opinion, you might beg to differ), and the throbbing crowd. More on my latest blogpost… Bu Qtair In A New Avatar.
It was time to make a new video on the revamped Bu Qtair. Hope you all like the video of new Bu Qtair as much as you liked my video on old Bu Qtair as it pushes beyond the 91K+ views on You Tube that the latter had made! Here’s presenting the video of the new Bu Qtair!
Unblogging it all… Ishita
Disclaimer: The subject, story, opinions and views stated here are my own and are independent. This is not a sponsored post and while you enjoy reading the posts with visuals, please do not use any material from these posts. And do join me on my daily food and travel journey on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter and Pinterest.
Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day; teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime. ∼ Maimonides
The above quote might be true, but you know what – perhaps not applicable to Dubai. As long as we are living in a city like Dubai… let someone else fish, fry them and feed you the fish. So, here’s our new find (almost budget find) – Al Fannah – that has my blogger friend and confidante Coffee Cakes and Running and myself drooling. Located inside the Umm Sequimm Fishing Harbour and the Dubai Ports and Customs Authorities, our hunch is that this hidden gem is soon going to be the next ‘Bu Qtair‘ in town, alibi some fairy lights, melamine plates, steel cutlery and queue-less waits. Also with better fish and a lesser bill (Dhs 10 less for each item off the menu as compared to Bu Qtair). The concept is very much the same – you go upto the counter, select your fresh fish, pay by the kg for the shrimps or by the piece for the big fish, tell them whether you want your fish fried or grilled (the latter is clearly not possible in Bu Qtair) and wait at your table.
Al Fannah needs attention by itself, not because of where it stands in the race against Bu Qtair. To clear things from the start, the restaurant doesn’t have any intention to compete. It so happened that discovering Al Fannah also had the strings of the word ‘Bu Qtair’ attached to it… on our last visit to Bu Qtair as we were heading out, somebody randomly handed in a flyer of this ‘new restaurant which also served similar fried shrimp and fish’. It looked pretty in the evening – with fairy lights and bright blue walls that gave it a glow like an aquarium from the outside. So, on a random afternoon, Debbie and I wanted a new find – a budget find – to cheer us up. The thought of a great Dubai weather, al fresco dining and good sea food prompted us to Al Fannah… and we were bowled over!
The food: We gobbled up two (or may be three) bowls full of fish curry dipping in the pieces of soft Malabari Parathas; a rough 750 gms of fried shrimps pre-marinated in their ‘secret’ spice (I know the secret spice is a clichéd one but I will probably have to go all the way to Kerala to get this secret one); a kg of Sheri deep fried to perfection – soft flakes tearing into our fingers. I also fell for the Biryani rice that our server Shiraz, promised would be ‘bohut acchaa‘ or too good. While I thought that the latter would only make a great prop for my instagram and probably walk away with me in a parcel, destiny clearly had a different intention. For it was cleary too good! If you are a rice eater, my suggestion would be to actually order just the Fish Biryani – it costs Dhs 12/plate – the quantity of rice is quite adequate for two and it covers a sumptuous fried fish (about 9 inches long)… until and unless of course you want a bigger fish to make yourself happy. Service is prompt and the staff attentive – as expected in similar casual dining places. And the food reaches the table steaming hot… well, what can I say? I am clearly sold!
The story: We chat to Younus, the brother of the restaurant owner. He is pretty conversant in English and tells us how the local partner has fishing boats, so the fish that is served here is fresh, local catch. It is quite evident from the location of Al Fannah (inside the Dubai Ports and Customs Authorities’ premises) that the owner has vasta/connection. He also has experience in F&B industry with a line up of other restaurants around Bur Dubai and Al Barsha. While Younus chats with us, the owner walks in and looks at us a bit suspiciously. Younus tells him that we are from a magazine – I guess that from a few random words from their conversation. What is interesting about these self-made entrepreneurs is that their behavior to their customers are consistent – irrespective of whether the latter happens to be media or not. No frills and bonus love in anticipation that you might actually be helping them by some word of mouth. This reminds me of the little story of Musa (again of Bu Qtair!)… when I went to give him a CD of a video that I had made on Bu Qtair (which had become quite popular on You Tube), the first thing that he asks me is whether I would still be paying for the coke that I was drinking!
It was quite obvious that I had to return soon to Al Fannah with the Z-Sisters and S and amidst the fairy lights and cool sea breeze we did return… very soon. Not many places in Dubai warrants me to come back. And also because my job as the Editor of FoodeMag dxb requires me to try out new places all the time – big (like the last one that visited) and small… and that means returning to a place is an opportunity lost to eat out at a new place. For one thing, Al Fannah is not for those on the look out for a romantic hotel set up, but a cute and modest one by the seaside (with artificial green carpeting under your feet while you dine al fresco and humble fairy lights – colourful ones!), but there will surely be fresh delicious seafood to bind your hearts. I do hope that the place becomes popular without the need to diversify their menu with other popular Indian dishes – Chicken dishes as Shiraz mentioned – or the Indian Chinese that they promised to serve me on my next visit.
Which is your favourite budget haunts in Dubai – without mentioning the clichéd Bu Qtair or Ravi’s – where you have to dig in with your hands? That brings back to this picture borrowed from Debbie where I am digging with my hand – not manicured yes, but it’s bringing back all my memories of deep (fried) fish love from our new find!
Unblogging it all… Ishita
Also read Pickle My Fancy’s review.
Disclaimer: The bill for our lunch was Dhs 110 for two persons which also included water and diet cokes, while the bill for our dinner was Dhs 350 for 5 persons (admitting that we did overeat!). This isn’t a sponsored post and the subject, story, opinions and views stated here are my own and are independent. While you enjoy reading the posts with visuals, please do not use any material from these posts. And do join me on my daily food and travel journey on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter and Pinterest.
Each person is an enigma. You’re a puzzle not only to yourself but also to everyone else, and the great mystery of our time is how we penetrate this puzzle. ∼ Theodore Zeldin
a person or thing that is mysterious or difficult to understand.
Difficult to understand, yet beautiful and stimulating to the senses… mysterious yet slowly revealing like a poetry… that is how I will describe my experience at Enigma. Did I comprehend it? Will I go back to it? Will I recommend it? For now, one thing is certain, this is a first of a kind of a dining concept that Dubai (and the world for that matter) has ever witnessed. Set rightly in the opulence and grandeur of the newly opened Palazzo Versace Dubai, Enigma is introducing a concept of rotating menus along with its chefs four times a year, each chef being renowned internationally. The menu is confidential the secret menu is revealed as the evening unfolds amidst drama (and theatrical performance of food, if I may add) and each dish tells an untold story. A seating has to be pre-booked and reserved online against payment (www.enigmadxb.com) – definitely something that the Dubai diner isn’t used to.
A day after the first season was launched, a select few of us had the opportunity to witness what can be regarded as Dubai’s first avant-garde dining experience. Opening the first season was the untold story named ‘Vanguard‘ from Qique Dacosta, whose avant-garde eponymous restaurant in Dénia in Spain has three Michelin stars and is currently listed at number 39 on the World’s 50 Best Restaurants list. Interestingly, the restaurant in Dénia will remain shut as his entire team will now be based in Dubai until April.Conceptualised by Patrick Robineau, the hotel manager of Palazzo Versace Dubai, each pop up at Enigma is intended to be “an exceptional dining experience that people crave and yearn to keep up with, just like other highly desired commodities.”
As we walked into the restaurant, the first thing that struck us was that the tables weren’t set up. This was interesting as I had just been told of the million dirhams Versace crockery that graced the other restaurant in the hotel – Vanitas. As Didier, the French restaurant manager and confidante who has been working with Quique for the last decade explained later, the entire experience at Vanguard was supposed be like an art revealing in front of the diner – starting with a blank canvas. Once the diner walked in and was seated, that’s when the colours would start splashing on the canvas and the culinary performance begin. The menu is shrouded in secrecy and I will let that be, instead I will take you through my interview with Quique that followed a day after the dinner. This will probably reveal a part of how Quique creates sheer art and story though his food – while keeping the enigma intact. Since the menu is a secret and there are many complexities to the dishes, it is advisable to let the team know about any food allergy and preferences so that an alternative is already thought of. What did I think of the menu? As I told on air the next day… I want to keep it a mystery as Quique would probably want it to be that way. But textures, fruity flavours, interesting play of colours, dramatic presentation mark the dishes. Yes food plucked from inside a rose, a sudden switching off of the lights or trying to figure out the real edible charcoal amongst a plate full of real charcoal – there are too many twists and surprises that need to be experienced by your self!
Quique Dacosta adds his final touch to the dessert. The pine branches are leftovers from Christmas following his 'no wastage' principle. The menu is confidential and each dish revealed unfolds a story. The avant-garde chef's restaurant in Denia in Spain has three Michelin star and the restaurant will remain shut as his entire team will now be based in Dubai until April. #enigmabliss ————————————————————#quiquedacosta#edibleart #vanguard #enigmadubai #theuntoldstory #avantgarde #gastronomy #palazzoversacedubai #mydubai @enigmadxb @qiqedacosta #ishitaunblogged #dubaiunblogged
My interview with Quique Dacosta therefore starts on a different note from fellow blogger and friend Foodiva‘s interview, having already experienced Quique’s food. Interestingly, we were both seated at the same table during our dinner at Enigma, and I think that her interview gives a different perspective to Quique while my write up delves more into Quique’s food. (My questions are in bold).
∼ Our dining experience the other day was more like a theater which probably holds an excitement for a first timer. Will it still hold an enigma for a repeat diner if the menu doesn’t change much? It’s like seeing a good movie twice – the first time when you watch it, you are surprised. The next time when you watch it, you can focus more on the details and you will always discover a new element that you wouldn’t have probably noticed in the first time. Obviously, it’s a movie that we have just started so the next time onward you will probably understand and appreciate a little bit of the ‘behind the scene’ effort and the concept. The menu may change a little bit and you might find a completely new menu or there might be a surprising twist to the dish same dish. The second time since the ‘setting’ is familiar, the diner will actually appreciate the food more and we promise that there will always be some twist and surprises.
∼ Your instagram feeds suggest that you have been sight seeing a bit and have also visited the spice market here. Are you planning to incorporate local spices in your menu? We went to the spice market and came across such amazing variety of new ingredients that we will certainly incorporate in our menu here. Just like we brought a few herbs and spices in our suitcases here, we are also going to take back a few ideas along with spices and introduce in the menu in Dénia.
∼ The Quique Restaurant in Dénia is focussed on sourcing things locally. Although the local farm movement is evolving here, how do you transplant an idea from a place which is organic to its origin to the artificial environment of Dubai? It really depends upon the quality of the produce and where we are. We try to deal with this in the most pragmatic way. We try to obtain the best produce depending upon where we are. It really doesn’t matter whether a tomato comes from Abu Dhabi or Italy or our farm in Dénia. What really matters is the taste and the flavour and the quality of the tomato.
∼ We tasted almost 10 dishes – are these dishes already there in Dénia or they are new to Dubai? (after a bit of discussion between Quique and Didier, the final verdict for the number of courses turned out to be 14!) If there are two complex elements in a dish, we consider it as two dishes instead of one because of the effort that goes into making them. The menu that we are serving here comprises of three historic ones – ‘The Living Forest’, the Gazpacho and the Fois Gras (the latter celebrating 15 years of conception!); four dishes from the last season in Dénia – the Rose, the Leaves, Charcoal and the Rice and the rest is specially created for Dubai. I want to add here, that although we have kept the classical dishes pretty much the same as we would serve in Dénia, we have tweaked here a bit in some dishes, for example, in the fois gras – while in Dénia we add rum and coke, here we have added some lychee components as we didn’t want to create any dish with alcohol.
∼ Each dish seems to have a beautiful story, but is there a sequence as to how the story is being told? Not really. But we have been trained to look for balance in the dishes in terms of flavours and quantity and our main intention was to have a progression of flavours. Although there wasn’t any sequence to a story but I would describe it as a music album where all the songs have its own little stories and all the twelve songs together make a concert album which is complete in its own.
∼ Do you fear that many restaurants are now replicating you – the avant garde concept, molecular gastronomy or complex presentations in their dishes? What is the future of this? I mean, this was the futuristic cooking… now what… what is the future? There are many chefs who are using avant garde technique as a way of seeing their own style of gastronomy. They don’t have to make copies as there is so much to do in the world of gastronomy. What is the future? I don’t have the crystal ball! What does YOUR crystal ball say? We have customers travelling from all over the world to see what I am doing, understand my emotions. All their waits and travels are worth the unique experience that we provide and that can be the only future – constant creative innovation that creates a diner’s curiosity.
∼ Did you actually come to Dubai before or try the local food? Did you work out in your mind what will work and what will not? No, I haven’t been but not because I didn’t want to. And in a way it was good because the Dubai diners would actually get to experience the original Quique Dacosta food rather than a menu that has been influenced by a prior visit or experiencing the local food. Specially after having visited the Spice market, I doubt whether it would be possible not to let them influence the menu I may create henceforth! So, it wouldn’t be exactly be a Qique Dacosta menu but an adopted Dubai version of a Quique Dacosta menu. Having said that, what I can tell is that if the diners want a my restaurant here in Dubai, then I will still have to get everything from outside. The only possibility right now to get Quique Dacosta food is to visit my restaurant in Dénia. But an easier way would be to try out my food during the time I am here!
∼ What inspires Quique Dacosta? For example, painters have inspirations and having experienced your food, I can say that you are no less than a painter (interestingly, last year Quique Dacosta was conferred an Honorary Doctorate in Fine Arts from Miguel Hernández University for his exceptional culinary artistry). What inspires you to paint the way you do, in a plate? Products send you messages. Yesterday, for example, we tried different kinds of peppers and some lemons that I had never seen before and they were interesting that I was excited. When I set my hand on some produce which seem perfect, an idea is immediately formed and inspiration begins.
∼ What inspires Quique Dacosta? For example, painters have inspirations and having experienced your food, I can say that you are no less than a painter (interestingly, last year Quique Dacosta was conferred an Honorary Doctorate in Fine Arts from Miguel Hernández University for his exceptional culinary artistry). What inspires you to paint the way you do, in a plate? Products send you messages. Yesterday, for example, we tried different kinds of peppers and some lemons that I had never seen before and they were interesting that I was excited. When I set my hand on some produce which seem perfect, an idea is immediately formed and inspiration begins.
∼ What does Quique Dacosta cook at home? Or does he cook at all? I am not at home too often and mostly working in the restaurants or travelling. However, I have got two kids and I try to keep everything simple, basic and traditional, of course with a bit of a professional touch! I use lot of vegetables and make soups – specially the very popular Spanish fish soup with vegetables.
∼ Is there any childhood comfort food that haunts you often? I am not like someone who is in need of comfort food and have been busy working since a very young age in reinventing the art of gastronomy.
∼ In the age of social media, how do you maintain the mystery element, the enigma of your food? I know how secretive you are about your menu and didn’t give me the printed copy of the menu, lest it’s revealed. Or do you want people to actually share? It’s obvious that I want the diners to be surprised when they come to the restaurant. Everybody has got his/her own thoughts, words and experiences. For example, when a music album comes out, you still want to go to a concert to watch your favourite singer or a band. Why is that? It’s because the experience is very different and touches some additional senses. Everybody needs to experience a beautiful sensation in person. Even though you may google different places and countries, you still make travel plans and visit those places. Why do you go to a museum when every image is available today in the internet? If you go to a museum it stimulates your sight, if you listen to music, it stimulates your ears, but food touches all your senses. So even if one has an idea of how a dish might look, it is still a different experience to actually smell it, touch it and finally taste it. And the emotions are bound to be different for every person as not everybody perceives everything in the same way!
∼ Curious, is Enigma a romantic venue at all when all the focus is in the ambiance and the beauty of the food rather than in the partner? It is definitely the most romantic venue. There is so much magic happening all the time – for example, it was only last night that a couple fell in love while they were relaxing in the terrace after a magical dinner, waiting for their coffee to come and today they are together! It’s a place for romance to bloom as each dish is created with a lot of passion, beauty and has an element of seduction. (and yes, I remembered now Quique Dacosta describing the dessert that we had tasted earlier as erotic!)
While my partner and I loved the evening that had so much of poetic nuances, mystery and mastery, attention to detail – starting with the movie that was being projected on the wall behind me (Fritz Lang’s 1972 silent movie Metropolis set in a futuristic urban dystopia and other such appropriate movies)… I did feel that the staff probably didn’t have a taste of much of what was being served – everyone seemed to be in awe of the huge name that was attached to the chef at the helm of the kitchen. My favourite dish was the rice dish that I thought I heard that there was duck in it, while clearly it was the pegion who was having its last say here! Do read another friend and fellow blogger The Hedonista’s tryst with Enigma.
What is your take on a dinner where the menu is shrouded in secrecy? Are you comfortable and excited to be led by the course of the evening and let your senses guide you or would you rather be at the helm of your own choices and like to wait in the table knowing what is in the plate that is being brought to you?
Unblogging it all… Ishita
You can book into Quique Dacosta’s Vanguard >> www.enigmadxb.com.
Until 12th April, 2016; Dinner only and closed on Sundays
Price/Guest: AED750/person on weekdays and AED850/person on weekends
Disclaimer: I had been an invited guest at Enigma and I had the opportuntiy to interview Quique Dacosta as I will be writing a special feature on him for FoodeMag dxb. The subject, story, opinions and views stated here are my own and are independent. While you enjoy reading the posts with visuals, please do not use any material from these posts. And do join me on my daily food and travel journey on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter and Pinterest.
You don’t stumble upon your heritage. It’s there, just waiting to be explored and shared. ∼ Robbie Robertson
The last time I went on a Frying Pan adventure, the tour duration lasted 4:23:01 hours and I have been burning calories ever since. Although it’s taken me two and a half years to hop on another adventure with them (blaming it partly to the dairy of the Z-Sisters), all the different tastes and flavours that I tasted on my first trail are still intact. This time my adventure was to Sharjah, an emirate that is very close to my heart. By Dubai standards, that means literally another continent – hence the lure of a discount and the comfort of a Careem car transfer to those booking into the tour! With a city where each geographical pocket is so segregated and unfamiliar to the residents living in another locality (Karama seems like a journey to the moon for a Marina resident, or a Bur Dubai dweller wilts trying to figure out where Muraqabbad street is in Deira), the #savourSHJ trail organized by Frying Pan Adventures in collaboration with Heart of Sharjah, is a gorgeous eye opener to the heritage and tales of the glorious past that has shaped the Sharjah of today. It is also an opportunity for the beckoning tourist or the resident to discover more of what the UAE has to offer, apart from the glamourous tourist spots flickering on travel channels. This is the first part of my journey – not a short one if you look at it, considering that it must have been at least two and a half hours of walk through 200 years of history!
Heart of Sharjah is the largest historical preservation and restoration project in the region. Planned over a 15 year period, to be completed by 2025, it seeks to revitalize the heritage district as a vibrant cultural destination by unraveling a glorious past – restoring historical buildings, constructing new structures following traditional Sharjah architecture and transforming them into hotels, restaurants, cafes, art galleries and markets, where the current generations and the future generations can experience Sharjah’s cultural and social fabric.
And… Frying Pan Adventures seek to uncover and share the rich and authentic fabric of culinary experiences that Dubai has to offer by walking you through the back alleys and feeding out of delicious and tasty eating holes.
The culminating result? A 5-hour long incredible visual journey into the bustling alleys with bricks of history and explosion of my senses with mesmerising tastes and colours. Tales of people, tales of places, tales of nostalgia. We were led by the storyteller extraordinaire – Arva Ahmed, the founder of Frying Pan Adventures who has spent her childhood in Sharjah. She was joined in by Fatima Salim Al Shuweihi, a local born in the very Heart of Sharjah and who has seen the changing face of the city like no other. We started on our journey at the Discovery Centre with our newly acquired knowledge of the area – how a reverse urban planning (almost) was about to take place with the demolition of high rises that surrounded the historic area and rebuilding and restoring of the entire area with buildings and structures that reflect Sharjah architectural heritage.
Majlis al Shaabi: Our next stop was Majlis al Shaabi, a traditional majlis cum recreation club for the elderly where dominos and cards were the only things that were meant to be given any form of attention, followed by kadak chai! The little conversation that we had with the gentlemen in the majlis was interesting and strewn with nostalgia and sadness that engulfs in remembering a bygone era. Dr Hussain Al Muttawa, one of the regular visitors to the club and a retired professor now with a doctorate from Michigan State University in USA, lamented how things had been so different before. He spent most of his mornings here ‘discussing things’ and went home only for lunch, sometimes staying upto late at night. ‘My wife is also old, so what can I do at home? So I come back to my friends here.’ A non-stop flow of over sweetened kadak chai provided these men with the energy and vigour that was probably needed for winning the rounds of cards or dominos. Losing wasn’t really an option here, as we soon realised when a ‘loser’ broke into a conversation that exceeded all acceptable decibel limits!
Al Omani Sweet Factory in Souq al Asra: If there was one place in this trail where I wouldn’t have minded being left behind, was our stop at the Al Omani Sweet Factory. An intoxicating aroma of ghee, cardamom and rosewater filled up this small room where four halwai experts sat by the gigantic clay oven with copper vessel – the mrjni, churning out Omani Halwa in equally gigantic proportions by stirring continuously. Four other men acted as assistants in this sweet act – an act I soon realised was a very laborious process. Omani Halwa epitomises festive celebrations – whether it is Eid, Ramadan or traditional weddings and also provided comfort at times of sorrow. It is very different from its namesake from the subcontinent. This is more like a thickened jelly and each pot churns out almost 50 kgs of Halwa. The process of halwa making starts by stirring in water, sugar, flour and ghee. Caramelised sugar, infused saffron, rosewater are added gradually while ladling in the ghee or clarified butter, almost continuously. Once the heady sweet concoction thickens, rich garnishes of apricots, cashews, sesame seeds are folded in amidst further stirring. Ashkar, one of the halwai experts from Kerala, explains, ‘You have to keep on stirring until the Halwa thickens. It is a very hard work as it may take upto 2 hours of continuous stirring to get the right consistency and one has to be always alert as the halwa may burn at the bottom if left without stirring, even it was for a moment.’ I probe further and he tells me the exact proportion of the ingredients that goes into the making of 50 kgs of halwa! Arva intersperses her chats with interesting fillers – like the Omani Halwa that is made for the palace – it is sweetened with figs instead of sugar and tasted ‘heavenly’!
Gulf Antiques and Turath Tobacco Shop in Souq Al Asra: This is the oldest and the most popular souq in the Heart of Sharjah with a strong history behind it – this was the Asra or the courtyard surrounding which traders from Persia and India traded retail goods that they brought in their boats to the adjoining harbours. Pearl diving had been one of the most important activity in the olden times and this is where the pearl divers met and exchanged notes on their haul. The alleys inside the souq are lined up with shops selling antiques, artifacts and souvenirs. Fatima and Arva lead us to the Gulf Antiques where Mohammed Nassir Al Zaroni, also known as the ‘Antique Man’, has a reputation for stocking genuine antiques, some of which he has no intention to sell. And clearly not to media people like us who overlook the ‘no photo’ posters stuck on the front door and start clicking inside! Set in 1964, this shop is one of the oldest and genuine. Fatima and Arva warns us that the souq is full of shops claiming to sell genuine antiques and one has to be wary of the fakes. Next, we halt at Turath Tobacco shop, one of the first tobacco shops set up in the region. While Abdul Ansari, the owner isn’t around, Ali bin Ali Al Muslin manages the show now and explains how the strong dokha or the tobacco is that go into the traditional smoking pipes called midwak. Ali ascertains very proudly that the midwak isn’t like the western pipes and how he only sells very good quality of tobacco, the price of which could go as high as Dhs 90/kg!
Archaeological Findings Room, Dukan Namlet, Ratios Coffee in Souq Al Shenasiya: As we walk around the reconstructed Souq al Shenasiya, we are shown around the different types of shops, both modern and old that grace the souq. These are shops selling traditional abayas, kharaz or the traditional beads, perfumes, jewellery and even households like traditional homeware, pots, decorative pieces and dallahs. This souq forms the most interesting piece in the jigsaw puzzle that connects the old Souq al Arsa and Souq Saqr. The Archaeological Findings Room gives a glimpse of the original foundations of the souq that were excavated after His Highness Sheikh Dr. Sultan bin Mohamed Al Qasimi, Member of the Supreme Council, Ruler of Sharjah, commissioned a non-intrusive radar survey of the area. Our next stop is Dukan Namlet – and this stop initiates an interesting thread of conversation. The young people in the emirate are coming back to their roots and opening up stores that connect them to their tradition or childhood nostalgia, but in a modern way. For example, Namlets – the flavoured drinks in the British Codd-neck bottles, were very popular drinks when Fatima was growing up. The word lemonade got transformed into Namlet and she recalls how they would mimic the sound of a pop and a fizz while eagerly pushing down the marble that was used to protect the fizz. The salted preserved fish at Maleh Al Dar is another example. Preservation of salted seafood is a part Emirati culture – a clever way in which the seafood could be enjoyed even after the end of a fishing season season. And interestingly, the maleh in its new avatar is also appealing to the modern day Emiratis, thanks to modern packaging and creative branding.
The validation of the above emotion can’t be felt more than at Ratios Coffee, a new wave cafe serving specialty coffee owned by Sheikh Khalid Al Qassimi. Overlooking the Sharjah Creek, the space is modern yet cozy and what gives it the smell and feel of wisdom is that all the wood that has been used in this space has been recycled from a dhow that has sailed the seas for more than 60 years! It is interesting how coffee preferences are slowly changing in the UAE and people are more conscious of specialty coffee, the various types, the roasting method and also how and from where its being sourced. After all, a small dose of quality caffeine never did anyone harm!
Arva led us through Souq al Saqr towards Bait al Serkel, the 150-year-old building which served as a Missionary hospital in the 1960s. Fatima’s excitement at this stage was really palpable – yes, this was the place where she was born. Places hold memories and that’s the only reason they become special in people’s hearts. Both the storytellers seemed to have been reliving their childhood memories and we continue on our journey further, regaled with their tales. While so far we had been having our cultural halts refuelled and hydrated with beverages like kadak chai, Namlet and a coffee (apart from spoonful of the divine Omani Halwa), what followed in the next half of the trail was clearly an assault on the gastrointestinal juices and our overstretched abdominal linings. We soon left Heart of Sharjah to explore more of the city and to dig into the divine tastes of…
… well, TO BE CONTINUED IN PART 2. All I can say right now is that when Sharjah beckons you… please do savour it and follow your heart!
Unblogging it all… Ishita
You can book into #savourSHJ trail from Frying Pan Adventures
Next Dates: Saturday, January 16 & Thursday, January 28
Duration: Approx. 4.5 hours
Price/Guest: AED 299.00 inclusive of 8 stops featuring 1 restaurant for brunch, 1 old-time sandwich cafeteria, 3 sweet stops, 1 bakery & 2 beverage stops
Disclaimer: I had been a media guest along with my favourite foodie companion Sally Prosser of My Custard Pie and others in this trip with the transport provided by Careem. The subject, story, opinions and views stated here are my own and are independent. None of the outlets mentioned here have sponsored this post. While you enjoy reading the posts with visuals, please do not use any material from these posts. And do join me on my daily food and travel journey on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter and Pinterest.
I don’t understand why the press is so interested in speculating about my appearance, anyway. What does my face have to do with my music or my dancing? ∼ Michael Jackson
The above quote stands true for Bu Qtair too. What has the new look of Bu Qtair got to do with the taste of the fish it serves?
The charm is still all in the fish, the fresh fish, the deep fried fresh fish, the deep fried spicy fresh fish. Specially the shrimps, although I miss the old Bu Qtair very very much!
Bu Qtair is no Michael Jackson. But it is Dubai’s only celebrity-eating-hole that has managed to get international media accolade (featured in CNN Travel, appeared on Emirates Airlines commercial, shortlisted by me in Foodie Hub as one of Dubai’s Essential Eats and more). It is also the only restaurant that requires more than an hour long queue to place an order from a menu has barely five items to chose. Five – including your Lipton chai! It is also one of the ‘hot cakes’ of a subject, on which my earlier blog post and an amateur video have been attracting much traffic consistently for the last two years, so much so that I can seriously consider taking a year of blogging sabbatical. Well, here’s the new video.
So, Bu Qtair has a new location now, a shift of 100 meters from one side of the road to the other – an upgraded location – a sea view along the fishing harbour. It also has a logo. Oh, how I hate the marketing gimmicks that *superbrands* have to fall for. All hell have broken loose on social media – Dubai is reacting as if Bu Qtair has been been exiled across seven continents. And rightly so.
What was the big deal in Bu Qtair in the first place?
It was a big deal. I mean think about it… we had a portacabin cum shack (above) existing in the shadow of 7-star Burj Al Arab for the last two decades. In a city where the landscape changes every hour – from blingy to blingiest, from extraordinary to incredible, from modern to futuristic, or where a restaurant revamps or shuts down every week and probably a new reaturant opens every day, this was a big deal. Bu Qtair, attired in its humble robe stood like the rock of Gibraltar in an upscale Jumeirah locality for more than two decades and served 250-400 covers everyday (going up to 1000 over the weekends). Diners would pour in irrespective of financial background and would be seated on plastic stools and chairs, feeding on a basic menu of fried shrimps and other fresh catch of the day – sheri, humour, pomfrets, king fish, alone with Malbari Parathas and a bowl of divine fish curry to dip all these in. The charm was the long wait, the ambiance and the vibe – the excitement on your name being called and the hot food finally arriving at your table. The method was the same – stand in the queue, place your order by choosing your fish, pay your bills and wait for your fish at the table. This was, provided, that you had managed to obtain a seat for yourself and your guest after a long wait. And the best part – it wasn’t really hefty on the wallet (anyone remember those initial days?).
What is in store for you now at the new Bu Qtair?
There are no more plastic chairs around and you are seated in posher-than-plastic cane chairs by the sea. There are also some ‘reserved’ tables (the staff told me they were for… the ‘Arbabs‘ and also in case of crowd spillovers!) Agreed, that the humble porta cabin had its charm, specially in a city that has always been besotted by glamour. But honestly, if you look beyond the appearance, nothing seems to have changed in terms of the dining experience – the charmingly (if I may?) harrowing long waits, the overdone crispy fried fish (my opinion, you might beg to differ) and the throbbing crowd. There has been some improvements actually – you now have long benches in a designated ‘waiting area’ and probably a toilet somewhere in the building nearby that houses the fishermen’s accommodation. Plus, you can order Lipton chais while you are waiting in the queue. Yes, I miss the old Bu Qtair and wish that it hadn’t shifted and had a makeover, but I am glad that I felt similar excitement eating in the new Bu Qtair as I used to feel while eating in the old one.
Is Bu Qtair only for the nostalgic Dubai residents? Will the first timers would also find it equally appealing?
The old Bu Qtair appealed to the Dubai residents mostly for the ambiance, and also for the simplicity in the food – marinated fresh catch of the day served after deep frying, and accompanied by rice or paratha along with a spicy fish curry made with coconut, turmeric, coriander and sardines, and a small plate of salad consisting of sliced onions. Nothing significantly more than this apart from a fizzy drink or a bottle of water. Here was a restaurant in the land of many shopping malls and snazzy restaurants, which was nothing more than an eating hole and that had stood the test of time. Even the first timers used to find the no-frill concept of Bu Qtair novel. What about the new Bu Qtair? There is still a long queue while placing the order inside the rectangular hall which also holds the open kitchen area. Once the order has been placed, it is followed by a long wait outside. Much to my relief – as the number of people waiting outside increased, after having placed their orders, so did the number of cars driving in and parking in the parking lot (just like before). The restaurant staff served the waiting diners simultaneously while they attended to take-away demands. Again, it was a manic rush as the food started pouring out of the delivery window. And when the food reached the table, it tasted exactly the same. Like before, this time too I found the fish (not the shrimps) over fried and there was again the suspicion whether Moosa was recycling frozen fish – implanted into my brains by some of my ethical blogger friends! I believe that there are somethings in life that you need to enjoy in abandon without much thought – for example, a Bu Qtair or a Ravi’s (or an occasional burger at Mc Donald’s) – no high ended discussion on fish sustainability, or judgmental discussion on whether the hype is all worth it. Bu Qtair is a Dubai institution that needs to be preserved the way it is… not-hidden-anymore-but-once-upon-a-time-hidden gem that deserved to be classified as a fossil and a heritage… only now with an ample parking space and a magnificent view and some comfortable seating!
Our year-end ceremonial dinner
Debbie Rogers, my confidante and Travel & Features Editor of FoodeMag dxb, the online food and travel magazine that I edit, joined me for a ceremonial year-end dinner at Bu Qtair. We arrived at 5 pm so that we could click some good shots of the food before darkness set in. Thrilled to have got a parking space for our cars in the adjacent parking lot (you have to pay the RTA parking charges if you park outside the campus), we grabbed a table on the outdoor terrace. I went inside the restaurant – a big hall with a lot of tables and seating arrangements, and was told that order will start taking place only at 5:30pm. There weren’t many people around – so I happily went out to click some harbour shots. Around 5:25pm I went back and was shocked to find that there was already a long queue waiting ahead of me. It took me more than 45 minutes to come up to the front of the counter and I placed an order for a kg of shrimps and a big sheri. This time there was an electronic weighing machine instead of a manual one. As I went and sat outside, I realised that it would take another long wait for the fish to arrive at our table. I chatted to the staff, some of whom I had known earlier and I came across a young lad who was helping with serving the food. He introduced himself as Moosa’s son who had been away all this while studying in Kerala. He struggled with his Hindi but was absolutely fluent in English (did I imagine an accent also?) and told me that he intended to help his dad and the new business. He also told me that it was still full everyday, much like before. Our food arrived in some time – smelling strong and delicious and promising the same taste that my tastebuds could remember from my earlier visits. The sheri seemed to have been over fried (like always) but the shrimps were crispy, spicy and satisfying. The parathas were soft (and oily – leave them like this please!) and the fish curry had its signature tanginess to it. By this time, the place was already breaking down with diners and the queue in front of the counter was reminiscent of the old Bu Qtair… clearly the evening had just begun here!
And the verdict?
I had my own sentimental reasons for choosing the new Bu Qtair as my first blog post of 2016. This is one place that had remained unchanged ever since I could remember and in my heart I wished that Bu Qtair would succeed in its new innings – a validation of my belief that a cosmetic makeover doesn’t change the integrity of a character. Although I was heart broken when I heard that Bu Qtair had finally shifted and the old charm was gone – I have to admit that I was thrilled that there was still so much curiosity and the taste of the food still remained the same.
Signing off… 2015 has been very busy but successful – I have met many people who have inspired me and will leave me inspired for a lifetime to come. There have been moments of introspection too (with tragic like this where I witnessed someone die on stage in an awards night or see a raging hotel on a New Years Eve) which have brought changes in my own objectives and perspectives in life. I have however, managed to rise above all these because I have been surrounded by a lot of love and blessing in the form of my family, the Z-Sisters and my friends- both foodie and non-foodie ones.
Eager to hear how you ushered in your New Year. Here’s wishing you all a very very happy 2016 – bright and safe, joyful and fulfilling and thank you immensely for following my journey – still!
Unblogging it all… Ishita
PS: Do have had a flip though the New Year Edition of FoodeMag dxb and let me know how you like it 🙂
Disclaimer: Our bill came to approximately Dhs 175 for 2 persons, including water, two chais and two fizzy drinks. The subject, story, opinions and views stated here are my own and are independent. None of the outlets mentioned here have sponsored this post. While you enjoy reading the posts with visuals, please do not use any material from these posts. And do join me on my daily food and travel journey on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter and Pinterest.
The location of earlier Bu Qtair (the new one is just across the street)
Bu Qtair Restaurant: Fresh Seafood Budget Restaurant; Out door sitting and Take away; Opening hours: Saturday till Thursday – 12:00pm – 2:30 pm and 6:30pm – 11:30pm, Fridays open after afternoon prayers.
Location: Umm Suquim 2 (Jumeirah 5). As you are heading towards the Burj Al Arab from Union House, take the right exit at Street 35a, off the glamorous Beach Road. Look out for an Emarat Petrol Station before the Umm Sequim Park which houses a small McDonald’s. Once on Street 35a, approach left when you hit Street 2b and you’ll find the Bu Qtair amidst the boat sheds.
Other articles on the new Bu Qtair:
Distance not only gives nostalgia, but perspective, and maybe objectivity. ∼ Robert Morgan
And maybe packets dripping with sugar syrup and home made sauces, fried fish and random biscuits – all stuffed in a suitcase while flying back to Dubai from Kolkata… rephrasing it… flying back to my adopted home from my childhood home. Expats have an amazing way of converting wherever they are living into various folds of manifestation of their roots – bringing back food memories via cans and jars and sealed packets and digging out pockets in the city they are living, which sell them. Sally Prosser, author of My Custard Pie caught me red handed with Potol/Parval and bottles of Kashundhi in my suitcase for her article for the Fall edition of FoodEMag dxb. And I am relieved to discover that I am not the only one and actually have many foodie partners in crime! Well, as much as our suitcases are packed with incredulity, the awards for ingenuity goes to our parents (both original and the law-ed ones!) – can you imagine bringing in fried fish (bhetki maach fillet complete with breaded crumbs) and notun gurer roshogolla (so what if the current debate is on whether roshogolla belongs to the Bengalis at all!) dripping in sugar syrup, wrapped in layers and layers of plastic – all in the name of love? On this love note, let me wish you all Shubho Bijoya and Happy Dussehra… may peace find a permanent place in this world and your hearts!
If you are a Bengali or an Indian living in Dubai, chances are that you will be getting a lot of fresh ingredients and produce – including different kinds of fish in the markets out here:
- Backet in Sharjah or Deira fish Market source traditional fish, even the exotic ones – like Koi, Pabda, Eilish, Parshe, Chitol and also the most common varieties – Rui/Carp, Pona, Chingri/Prawns. Aar etc. Any fish associated with traditional Bengali recipes, chances are that you will find it. Excepting Bhetki.
- City Mart in Rolla Street, Bur Dubai flies in fresh fish from Bombay everyday – Aar, Koi, Eilish and Tyangra, the latter when in season. They also stock Bhetki from Bangladesh and is different from the ones that we have grown up eating.
- Lulu keeps small sized Rui; also Mefroz in Karama and Fruit & Vegetable market.
Spices are available in most supermarkets in Dubai, with a few exceptions like Radhuni that go into Panch-Phoron or the 5 spices-mix. While the fish comes frozen, air packed and sealed from Thailand, I have also found an array of local fish that can substitute for the traditional ones (for example Salmon can be used for Shorshe Bata/Musatrd Salmon with great success). One of the things that cannot be substituted while cooking Bengali fish is the Mustard Oil. Without this, a Bengali fish is absolutely incomplete and only a few brands can do justice to the Bengali kitchen – Tez and PRO – again both easily available in regular supermarkets.
Bengali Sweets… every street in Kolkata has a sweet shop and Bengali sweets are so popular that Indian sweet shops would often have a corner dedicated to ‘Bengali Sweets’. In Dubai there are many Indian sweet shops, but only a few of them have such sacred sweet corners. A small list:
- Bikanervala (our favourite here is Chinese rasgullas, Indrani cups)
- Puranmal (Anandmadhuri, Rasmadhuri, Malai Sandwich, Raskadam etc)
- Shree Gangaur (Gurer Rasgulla, Triveni cup, Mishti Dahi etc)
What comes inside our suitcases? All the ones that have been pictured below and more!
My mum-in-law doesn’t spare bringing in anything that I love eating – starting from bringing in half fried bhetki fillets, fried balls of chitol maach that would later go into gravy to half-cooked mocha/banana blossom flower. Also stuff from specific shops or specific brands – Mithai’s Mishti Doi, Balaram’s Baked Rasgullas, Bancharam’s Baked Mihidana, Mukhorachak Chanachur, Gondhoraj Lebu (Bengal lime which has a sweet aroma much like the Thai Kaffir lime), Jharna Ghee (yes nothing but the brand ‘Jharna’), Kashundi (a pungent mustard sauce) and Five Star (a chocolate from Cadbury that tastes like Mars) – the list is pretty endless! What definitely doesn’t travel with us and I wish that it could – are Posto/poppy seeds as these are banned in this region although Middle Eastern cuisine does have a lot of usage of poppy seeds.
Eager to hear what comes back in your suitcases apart from love and good memories?
Unblogging it all… Ishita
PS: If you are tired of seeing the same table background in the above pictures, here’s a warning – we have got a new dining table after a decade and you might have to bear with that in the oncoming posts!
Good Morning long weekend! You will probably see this background more often now… after months of waiting, here comes our specially designed dining table with Persian tiles. Beautiful yes, but a bit cumbersome, do you think? Hope you all are having a good break… and Happy Islamic New Year! #weekendbliss———————————————————–
Disclaimer: The subject, story, opinions and views stated here are my own and are independent. None of the outlets mentioned here have sponsored this post. While you enjoy reading the posts with lot of visuals, please do not use any material from these posts. Do join me on my daily food and travel journey on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter and Pinterest.
Delicious autumn! My very soul is wedded to it, and if I were a bird I would fly about the earth seeking the successive autumns. ∼ George Eliot
Images of Durga Pujo (the annual autumn festival for Bengalis worldwide when Goddess Durga descends upon earth and photobombs peoples’ selfies!) have started to flood across Facebook and its drilled in my head thousand times over which new dress or saree that my Bengali friends would be wearing on each of the days of the Pujo. That translates into 5 days of Pujo, 5×2 *belas* or times (mornings and afternoons) that they would be changing/wearing new clothes (that makes 10 new dresses plus a few more bought over the online shopping portal on top of what Rangapishi or Fuldimoni bought in a boutique exhibition!). What happens in Dubai? A lot for those who are involved – there are many Pujos being celebrated privately and an official one in the Sindhi Hall in Meena Bazar. But for many of us who try to struggle our daily school and office routine with Pujo, we look forward to the weekend with friends. While my Ma is probably too busy to even whatsapp ‘Happy Pujo’ right now and Baba is too proud to declare that although we have the tallest building on earth in Dubai, the tallest Durga idol – a 80-feet tall fibre-glass Durga idol has just been inaugurated. And now I hear – for the first time ever in the history of Kolkata’s pujo, a near stampede has forced down a Pujo. To move on with the good things in life – here’s a beautiful recipe – an unusual one I would say – to bring on the Pujo… where ever you are, whether you are a Bengali or not.
Recipes differ across the border – and S’s paternal family originally coming from Bangladesh, have many such recipes that are new to my family. A few years back when Kakima, S’s auntie came to visit us, she brought along with her a treasure trove of recipes that I had never known existed or had tasted. Like the Sour Spinach Chutney. Neither did I know that a vegetable existed in the name of Sour Spinach nor had I any iota of how that sour spinach would taste. Or a payesh/pudding made with Carrots! And cabbage! And Sweet Potato! And Beetroot! Honestly, I pity how geographical boundaries have made our perspectives narrow and knowledge slim. So here I am digging my resurrected albums (remember I had said once that my computers had crashed?) to find some beautiful recipes that needs to see the fire of the oven.
Moong Daaler Payesh or Yellow Lentil Pudding
2 lt low fat milk (many prefer to use sweetened condensed milk – in that case you will need much less milk)
1 cup moong daal or yellow lentils
2 cups sugar or 1 cup sugar with 1 can of sweetened condensed milk
1/2 tsp ghee
2 green cardamoms
1/2 bay leaf
1/4 cup pistachios or cashews, 1/4 cup raisins, soaked in water*
1/2 cup almond slivers*
* Optional – for garnishing
- Soak the moong daal in water for some time and drain out.
- Add ghee in a Dekchi/a flat bottomed pan (Dekchis are usually used for cooking Rice. Please note that all types of payesh are always made in utensils meant for cooking rice or kept separately and hasn’t been used for any other type of cooking. This is because of it’s susceptibility to catching the smell of other cooked items. Constant stirring is required so that the bottom of the pan doesn’t get burnt).
- Add the moong daal and stir it along with ghee taking care that the grains don’t get burnt. Set aside.
- Boil the milk.
- Add the moong daal when the milk comes to a boil. Throw in bay leaves, cardamoms and a bit of ghee.
- Keep on stirring so that the lentils are boiled properly and the milk thickens to almost three-quarters of it’s original quantity.
- Add the sugar and the sweet condensed milk only towards the end, and keep stirring continuously so that the payesh doesn’t get burnt at the bottom.
- Take it off the fire when your desired thickness and consistency has been achieved (some prefer it runny, some prefer it a bit thick).
- Garnish with pistachios, raising, cashew Nuts. Serve it cold. Many prefer to eat payesh smoking hot, just after it has been taken off the fire – so the intensity of sizzle is up to you!
A bit more stirring and thickening of the payesh will probably result in a Halwa. Do try out the other traditional payesh recipes in this blog – Rice Pudding, Notun Gurer Payesh, Gajorer Payesh/Carrot Pudding or the Simuiyer Payesh/Vermicelli Pudding from my blog. If you are looking
What do you do when you miss something that you have grown up with – a festival, a ritual, a dish or those special people? We make believe! I tell Lady M (my lady Friday)… oh I completely forgot, it is Durga Pujo in Kolkata and everybody will be doing something special – wear new clothes, eat amazing food and catch up with friends and family. She said ‘Lets do something special too’ and that’s what we did… an impromptu makeover to her chilli chicken on our lunch menu! And what a makeover… complete with table setup and her suggestion that I should pour myself a Chablis – wow!
Doesn’t this dessert look devastatingly destructive (promised myself I will not be using the adjectives like awesome, delicious, fabulous and the most common one – yummy)? Festive or not, desserts are meant to tug at souls (not the diabetic ones). And autumn brings in the new edition of FoodEMag dxb, Do have a flip through – its really beautiful and much shorter. Do share pictures with me when you try this recipe… any new twist that you can bring into it? Curious – whether its only a Bengali who thinks of converting every vegetable on this planet into a dessert or there are more such species like us? Happy Autumn, Happy Navratri, Happy Durga Pujo… and hello fresh hope!
Unblogging it all… Ishita
Disclaimer: The subject, story, opinions and views stated here are my own and are independent. While you enjoy reading the posts with lot of visuals, please do not use any material from these posts. Do join me on my daily food and travel journey on Instagram, Facebook, Twitter and Pinterest.
Either write something worth reading or do something worth writing. ∼ Benjamin Franklin
Before you even close this window thinking that this a blogpost in the manner of an Oscar speech, please, please stop. I am writing my 200th+ post and my blog turned 4 just day before yesterday. And like an awestruck mum I kept staring at my baby thinking ‘where did all the time fly and did I do it all right?’ I must have done something right indeed, for in these 4 years I have had an incredible journey which started off with my first post. An excerpt here.
More than a decade back we – my husband and I, set up our first home in Srilanka. Albums stacked with those good-old memories fill up our book shelves even today. It was time that we showed our two little girls, the Z-Sisters, the country which had become our second home. Re-visiting Srilanka was more than just a vacation. It was as if, we were searching for our own roots. A decade back we had stood by the banks of the Kelani river, letting our eyes wander into the woods. Now a decade later, the four of us were standing at the same spot. As if one circle of life just got completed.
The empty bench seemed symbolic. With the beginning of the second circle (with the four of us now) I had to unblog them all!
This picture below was the first picture in my blog, although my romanticized Arien mind visualises it as the one on the right – in sepia.
Why did I start blogging?
Keep reading – hold on, I will keep it short by my standards. I started writing because I had always wanted to write, direct a film, write a book. I started on the first, skipped the second, stalled the third. The books I want to write will take time – a food-oriented travel book and another epic one on Bengali cuisine, the kind that can be passed on to my daughters as a wedding trousseau. So I have started writing blog posts instead.
My earlier food posts were strewn with my nostalgia of Bengali food and my childhood years of growing up in Kolkata and my travel posts would be of places that we were traveling to as a family – all bills paid out of our own pockets. In fact, I didn’t have a very concrete idea about what a blog was, I felt it was just like an extension of a private diary – only now more public. I would approach editors of various publications for writing assignments and would be asked to show sample of my writings. Fair enough! I started venting out in my blog – not rantings but passionate food and travel stories that started connecting to people. And slowly this snowballed into something more serious – the blog literally started taking me everywhere. I made blogger friends around the world and the connection with them would be so strong that I would be seeking them out when I travelled to different cities, ask S to deliver chocodates (a speciality here) to some of these friends while on his travels (S would cringe – deliver a gift from my wife to a random stranger – how bizarre!). I met chefs (some of them huge names and a few budding), food critics, hoteliers, PRs, random people in airports with whom I would exchange recipes, whatsapp the nurse who tended me while I was in the hospital about the new restaurant that she was probably mentioning… my life had become bizarre. Readers would ask about our daughters (affectionately called as Z-Sisters in the blog and now in real life), ask about my Mum if I happen to mention somewhere in my social media that she was in town… and most bizarre (and touching) of all… offer my family and myself their home to stay, in case, we were ever around in their town. Who knew I would be stroking out words in my About Me page as my blog evolved and my family ‘aged’!
I could go on and on about how far I have come since my first blogpost and how many great opportunities have come along the way, but what I really want to do is tell you how I feel about you – if you are my reader, a blogger, PR person who may have approached me or would like to approach me and lastly, a few Editors who may have snubbed me down in my earlier days. Strangely enough, I have also become very close to a few of you – readers, bloggers, PR and Editors in many ways and I have grown with you all. I will also tell you what my plans are.
To all my readers
- Please leave comments: I know you have super ‘liked’ my post. But how I miss the dialogue – the follow up comments that could be converted into a subsequent blogpost. I do agree that social media is connecting me to a wider audience, if you don’t like reading, follow my visual journey in Instagram or if you hate the long sentences I write, catch me squeezing myself hard within a 140-words limit in Twitter. But you know what? I miss ‘hearing’ you!
- Share if you like and let me know if you have already done so: You know that you have already done me such a huge favour by sharing! But please let me know who you are, so that I can thank you. I meet readers who mention friends and family who recommended my blog and who have been reading my blog and know the blogposts by heart. I want to know who you all are.
- Do hang on even though I have stopped doing giveaways: I have consciously stopped competitions and giveaways on the blog as I have realised that those of you who genuinely care and read my blog would be hopping in anyway – whether you win something or not. I don’t want to entice people who don’t intend to read into leaving comments on how beautiful my writing is, just because there is a giveaway. I want genuine readers to rub shoulders with me in the sanctity of the virtual space where I live in – that’s my blog.
- You think that you are getting disconnected? Let me know immediately: You have become busy in your life, I have become busy in mine. I have evolved as a blogger, the direction of the blog might have changed its course from the first blog post. You don’t like it anymore? Do let me know. One thing that I can assure is that – the ethos and the values haven’t changed. It never will.
To all my blogger friends (food bloggers mainly vis-à-vis the lifestyle bloggers and fashion bloggers)
- Blog for the right reason: You know your designations today, right? You are an Influencer. Your Instagram posts are microblogs with peripheral sub stories emanating from each post. Do it right. If you want to earn money out of your blog – you have all the right to do so and please go ahead and do it. Which fool would be working his/her spoons and forks out, clicking pictures and wasting gigabytes of memory space without earning anything in return? Getting invites or lovely goodies for sampling should be considered perks of a blogger – but you have to justify that. Don’t accept products or invites that you can’t justify – agreed, you might not be able to write a blog post about it, then you should be able to put it out on Instagram or Twitter at least (provided that you like it – but make your intentions clear.). If you do plan to do some shout out, ask yourself the honest question – is that product really worth that shout out? Nothing comes free in this world. No body questions an Airline staff when they get a discount for their family or travel for free – its considered as a perk. Pilots become pilots because first of all they love flying. They didn’t become pilots just because they can travel for free. Blogging is no different. But if you were to blog only to grab the free fois gras that you wouldn’t want to pay for from your own pocket, then that’s probably the wrong reason. Make it clear to your readers or any damn living organism who lands in your blog that it provides you with your bread and butter. Or may be the occasional bread and butter. Or may be it’s just an outlet for your creative expression. Make it honest – be it on Instagram or a blog post – whether it’s an invite or a product to be sampled. Your reader ‘deserves’ honesty from you so that they can make their own judgements!
- Don’t underestimate your blog: You are a mini news channel on your own and reach out to much more people than you think. Don’t give out wrong information or a sudden judgement that can break businesses or someone’s credibility. You have to be honest for sure, but not misuse the power that you yield.
- Unique voice is so cliched. Follow someone who inspires you: I mean seriously, how many of us are nerdy enough to have our own unique voices? Or start ticking the right check boxes from the very first post? You have to be inspired by someone, you have to have a blog mentor, you must give in to temptations to change your direction after getting inspired, you must have passionate co-bloggers who you can relate to. And you must have that someone who you want to emulate. Even in art school, students are taught to copy the masters. And then you shall find your own blog wings.
- There’s no right or wrong: Blogging is just like child rearing and like all mothers doing ‘mostly right’ for their children, you know instinctively what exactly you are doing. Its your blog – write however you want to write. If you want to write a fictional story while writing a recipe post – go ahead and do that. Just keep it simple, keep it coming out straight from your heart.
- Pray for traffic, a bit of spotlight, few media mentions and awards: Face it, we all need these in dollops. The first one attracts the second one, and that attracts the third… so on and so forth… but where do you start, I honestly can’t remember. All I know is that you can’t be trying too hard and you can’t just be writing good and wait for all these to happen. Networking can be taxing, time consuming and can affect the quality of the blog. My advice to you would be (although I haven’t done it yet and probably am losing time trying to do everything myself) – Get someone to do it – a Talent management company who gets you big clients that pay them to pay you. Bottom line, do your own PR – after all you are the best person to understand the ethos of your own blog. Next best scenario – get someone good to do it for you!
To all the PRs (not applicable to all and you know who you are)
- I need you, but don’t use me: The love hate relationship between PR and Bloggers is so strong – it’s like a strawberry smoothie having the power to start a bush fire! All those wonderful invites coming my way from you guys make my day or rather a few delicious evenings. But what spoils them are when some of you make me feel that you are doing me a favour by giving me a free meal. If your client is reaching my audience of 20K+ through my social media and because of my writing, I am giving you PR coverage worth thousands of dollars, it’s me who is giving you something for free, not the other way round. And you are obviously aware that there are bloggers who even charge for attending events, right?
- Mere invites don’t pay for the school fees or the grocery bills: This blog may be my creative space, it is also a platform to showcase my writing. It brings in a huge amount of traffic (and I do have plans to invest in SEO in the future). It is also intended to bring some spotlight on myself so that I can brag some paid work that revolves around food and travel. Dare to pitch me with some exciting projects that would blow my tastebuds and senses right away?
- Shocking, but yes I have a name. Different mailing systems let you send bulk emails addressed by the first name. So please, please don’t address me as ‘DEAR BLOGGER’ or ‘Hello _’! It’s really rude and insensitive. How much more time does it take to get the settings correct?
- Send me an invite that I can’t refuse: A few invites come in asking me to ‘bring along S and the Z-Sisters’… wow, you got me sold already – it makes me happy that you made that effort to know a bit about me. That’s fantastic but I may not be able to honour your invite – honestly there are far too many invites than I can physically attend. Most reviews on this blog aren’t against invites although I may take up invites if I am curious, or I might feature in a roundup in the blog or else where. Please don’t send me an invite to join you for a Friday Brunch on my own so that I can write a review on my blog. Do you work on your holidays? Tell me, why should I come on my holiday, eat on my own and then go back writing for you? Ask me to bring a bunch of friends along on a Friday – and you may have already pitched it right. I am not being greedy here – I am just telling you that it’s my day off and I won’t work for free, at least on a Friday, so let me have some fun as well!
- Ask me before you send in products: Honestly, your client wants their brands to be showcased properly. And I need to justify why I am accepting your gifts or invites. I am not obliged to post anything on my social media channels unless I choose to, specially when I haven’t been paid for it (and yes, there have been many commissioned projects that I am actually working on).
- I have rejected your invite or haven’t replied to your emails? Trust me, I don’t hate you. It just means that I have been truthful to myself. If I can’t feature my dining experience in a blog post (probably because these are not the kind of places my blog writes about or I really am not interested in the venue or I am already done or I am fasting!), or post on Instagram or Twitter, I shouldn’t be accepting that invite. And if I haven’t replied to your emails – oh, I am really working hard on that – to keep pace with replying to the number of emails that pour in daily – my sincerest apologies.
- Don’t invite me for a night stay with complimentary breakfast and expect me to pay for my dinner and write about the stay: What do you expect me to write about? My sleeping experience or my breakfast? Decide on what coverage you want for your client and pitch appropriately.
- Or send me an invite for an event on the day of the event: Promising to offer transportation doesn’t help either.
- Or tell me that you will invite me to a restaurant every time you meet me: Darn it! Just shoot that email invite out, please!
- Or think I am waiting for all the invites: No! I can very well pay my own bills and I do pay my bills often at many restaurants. If I get an invite to a restaurant I that wanted to visit, I may take up on that.
- Or think that all blogposts are sponsored: While there are no sponsored posts here, there have been projects – both food and travel, for which I have been commissioned for. The stories that you read are my own stories. For example, my Istanbul trip was hosted by Turkish Airlines but all the stories that you read on Grand Bazaar, eating heritage Turkish Meatballs or Izgara Köfte or our crazy night out in Ortaköy are all my own. Disclaimers disclose all.
- And lastly, FoodEMag dxb is completely another product: I agree, this adds to the confusion. Please don’t mix up. Yes, I co-founded FoodEMag dxb and I edit it, but accepting something on behalf of the blog doesn’t guarantee a space in the emagazine and vice versa. You are probably confused between the blogger (IshitaUnblogged) and the Editor of FoodEMag dxb – we are two separate identities – my blog is a personal space where I write about things that fit this blog and the emagazine is exactly that – it’s a commercial magazine. It’s got its running costs, design costs and development costs. I probably am to be blamed anyways for not having cleared this confusion… so a new About Me page is on the way.
To all the Editors
- Thank you, for repeatedly telling me that I didn’t have enough writing experience: Because of you all, I started writing in my blog and I can’t thank you enough. Today, I own a blog space where people come to read ‘my writings’. These are writings that I want to write and not writings commissioned by you.
- So nice to meet you: I am proud to say that I am going to the same exclusive invites and places that you are going to. And all because my blog (and now the emagazine) creates similar noise (if not more at times) like your ‘big name’ media publications create. I apologise if I am sounding arrogant here… but I am sick of being asking how I managed to get the invite. I didn’t manage the invites, the invites managed to get accepted by me. Do recognise that my blog is powerful.
- I am not qualified enough like other journalists: True, I may not be qualified as a journalist but I am highly qualified having obtained a First Class Masters Degree in Econometrics and… oh, I will let it pass. Yes, I am learning and yes there are many mistakes that I am still making, but its a learning curve. I am gathering more experience and knowledge because I am building a brand of my own – however small it might be. I plan to make it only bigger!
- I am a good story: Trust me when I say this. I have managed to travel countries, speak on radio channels, connected to people, attend international forums. And yes, I have co-founded an emagazine that is so beautiful that it makes me proud… If you still think that there isn’t much story in here, then do read what I plan to do in the next few years (of course I am not disclosing all!). Inshallah!
Lastly, to myself
- I want to blog like before: I want to go back to my simplistic writings – take out the blogposts from my brains rather than brewing them inside!
- I want to travel the world with my family: Make sure, I am writing on travel more than what I am… I still haven’t written on Srilanka, Florence, Goa, the US and Ladakh. But I have spoken about the latter a lot. So tourism authorities and travel companies, take note. All stories retold in my style.
- I want to concentrate more on Hidden Gems and quirky finds, culinary travel (in this blog): I write a Hidden Gem column in PW of Gulf News. Small places are my passion. And the fine dining and all the gourmet opportunities – go into my special roundups or FoodEMag dxb.
- I want to write my book: I need to travel to Bangladesh first as probably that’s where the story would start unfolding. On hold for many years now, I should start planning soon. Is there a good publisher who can sign me up?
- Travel show? You tube channel? Media columns? I am not pitching. You come forward and show me a plan that will incorporate all the crackpot ideas that I have. I can see a luxury caravan travelling all around the world with the logo painted in graffiti style. Lil Z doesn’t mind home schooling at all. This would be an inspiring story of an ordinary family who leads an extraordinary life through their travels and what better school can I provide them than showing them the world?
- I would love to open a Bengali fine dining restaurant: When? I am not sure! This is one passion project that I would love to work on eventually.
- Take FoodEMag regional and international: With the pool of talented blogger friends around me, I don’t see why this can’t be made into something that is really influential, inspirational and unique. Yes, the brand is becoming visible, but I want to take it to different cities and to different levels. Investors and resources please?
- Take care of my health: Late nights and working without any structure has taken tremendous toll on my health. If I have to live my life eating and travelling, I better be fit to do that!
- Enjoy life, my new garden, friends, family and our two gorgeous girls: I think I had been too harsh on myself, working too hard and chasing no dream in particular. All this started off so that I could live off my passion and then I stopped breathing in the daily moments. So here I am, pausing once in a while – from writing, from clicking, from uploading, from sharing, from helping others… and doing ‘just nothing’!
- Lastly, but not the least, I will never write a recipe with Chia in it: No honestly. I think I must have choked on Chia seeds and died in my earlier birth – how else can I explain my apathy towards it!
I have to say this because I really want to, and I really owe this to you: Thank You so very much – I am humbled and touched and feel absolutely blessed. I feel like mentioning so many names in this post – starting from some readers who have become close, blogger friends of Fooderati Arabia and around the world who feed my alter ego and keeps me sane (and some Gen X bloggers have also started saying that I inspire them which makes me blush – not out of the thought that I really inspire them but that I might have become really really old), close friends and family – the last two sets have been tolerating me enough and have been bearing up with all the idiosyncrasies that I do in the name of blogging. I still remember the 1st birthday cake that our friends’ daughters had baked (above – but those days clicking good pictures wasn’t really a priority) and we celebrated at home. Thank you so very much for reading till this exclamation mark!
Unblogging it all… Ishita
Disclaimer: Please note that this blog is not a sponsored blog and the subject, story, opinions and views stated here are my own and are independent. While you enjoy reading the posts with lot of visuals, please do not use any material from this post. You can catch my daily travel and food journey on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter.
Get to know the Chef and you will start to enjoy dining out even more. ∼ John Walters
#MasalaAwards2015 as Best Asian Blog! To vote for me, please click here... masala.com/awards
And how much better can you know your chef than when he comes home into your own kitchen to cook? And serves delicious food – course by course, and leaves your kitchen scrumptiously clean? It does sound like a fairy Godmother descending into the kitchen and creating magic with the wave of her wand and disappearing in the end, while you are left behind to rewind the good times and burp out loud without any qualm of other diners staring at you – after all this is your home, and you just tasted some fabulous creation out of a restaurant menu. ChefXChange is an online platform that lets you book a private chef ranging from a professional to an amateur one, interact with him before hand in creating a menu (that is, if you wish to) and let him/her take over your kitchen while you can do the darn job of pouring yourself your own drink!
What did Maxime think of his first experience of cooking in a different kitchen environment and interacting with a family from a different culture as well (he came from the Provence region in France with an exposure to the classic techniques of French cooking, I treated him to my Mishti Doi too)? Yes, the size of the kitchen was definitely a challenge for him (although he was familiar to the kitchen as he lived in a different building in the same block), but it wasn’t ‘a disaster!’ As he later said, ‘It is interesting and is a challenge. But it has been my pleasure to have been able to create a beautiful moment. When we are working in the restaurant kitchen we hardly get to interact with the diners and hear their feedback, but here it is a lovely feeling to see the plates getting empty and know first hand how the dishes fared’. The The menu was delightfully elaborate, finalised after discussing with him earlier regarding our dietary preferences (whether we ate raw fish, whether we had any food allergy, I definitely wanted the duck that I had tasted in Boca earlier etc etc). Delicious starters, breads and dips complemented the interaction and the food talk that entailed with Maxime – how he visited the Deira fish market everyday to get his fish and how the region of Provence and the fresh ingredients that grew there, shaped his cooking. So while we savoured our home cured Beef Pastrami served with mustard and herb Focaccia or the Grilled Octopus and air dried beef, Maxime toiled hard in the kitchen to bring out our next course – Black Rice & Seared Scallops. A gorgeous Mascarpone Crème Brûlée with Raspberry Compote complete with a candle (Maxime arranged even this) sealed the birthday celebration for Big Z’.
For more info on ChefXChange and booking your own private chef, click here.
How do you like the concept of bringing a private chef into your home? Would you love the interaction that follows or would you be happily watching your favourite soap on TV while a professional chef toiled in your kitchen to transport a restaurant experience at home? Or would it pinch you to pay a restaurant bill while eating at home in your pyjamas? For us, we simply loved the concept and our experience so much that we *gifted* a similar experience to a friend on her birthday. In a concept like this, the chef interaction itself is half the deal, and gorging on beautiful food that appeared out of our own kitchen created one of the loveliest culinary experiences that we, as a family, would cherish for a long time to come!
Unblogging it all… Ishita
PS: If you enjoy reading my blog and it inspires you in any way, do vote for me – the blog has been nominated as the Best Asian Blog in #MasalaAwards2015 under the Popular choice list.
To vote for me, please click here... masala.com/awards
Disclaimer: ChefXChange hosted this experience for us and the menu that evening costed AED 325/person. The subject, story, opinions and views stated here are my own and are independent. While you enjoy reading the posts with lot of visuals, please do not use any material from these posts. Do join me on my daily food and travel journey on Instagram, Facebook and Twitter.